Dua Lipa’s ‘Radical Optimism’ Style Marks a Major Gear Shift

Much has been made of Dua Lipa’s graduation from popstrel to pop diva–the kind who opens the Grammys, presents Kylie Minogue with the Global Icon Award at the Brits, and stars in a summer blockbuster while polishing off her third album just because Greta Gerwig asked her to. The launch of Radical Optimism has revved Lipa’s career up a notch and there’s been a major gear shift on the style front too.

While straddling Tinseltown and the world’s biggest stadiums, Dua–who is firmly in media mogul mode, traversing continents while also producing her podcast and newsletter–has kept one thing constant in her wardrobe: leather. Her sexy boss bitch style hinges on vintage Raf Simons macs, Chrome Hearts stagewear teetering on bondage, slick Jil Sander coords, Ludovic de Saint Sernin odes to The Matrix and GCDS motocross jackets. At times (hello Versace Brit Awards gown), that luxed-up leather can verge on subversive nightclubber, cruel mistress (here’s looking at you blood-red studded Valentino mac), or racer babe (all that silver Tiffany & Co jewelry and super-tight Mugler), but for the most part, it’s an entirely slick proposition masterminded by Lipa’s longtime stylist Lorenzo Posocco.

Their partnership is proof that it pays to stick to one solid creative collaborator rather than chasing the next big thing. Posocco has grown up with Dua; he understands the vision; he knows there will be no more awkward dance routines, only pristine production; he appreciates that she is organized to the nth degree and, most importantly, he gets what works for her. Posocco curates rails and rails of looks so that Lipa can pool her energies elsewhere. It works.

The only time we see Dua soften her curated flame-haired image is with new love interest Callum Turner. PDA fashion–think: just-rolled-out-of-bed denim, tees and swaddling coats–takes precedence over editorial looks, but Lipa will never compromise on the accessory front. Posocco’s capacity for securing the latest It-bag, no matter whether Dua is in Mexico or India, is unparalleled. She is currently toting a Birkin and Chanel flap model in line with her elevated style, but she’s consistently loyal to Gucci’s Jackie and Bottega’s Gemelli–although these pale in comparison to the ultimate accessory: the internet’s current favorite boyfriend. Whether the romantic dalliance is merely a brief flirtation is besides the point–Dua and Callum are both, quite literally, dining out on the publicity.

As this is a popstar style dissection, there are the requisite bodysuits to discuss. The Radical Optimism album artwork sees Dua straddle a pole in a black body, white socks and heeled Mary-Janes, and there’s plenty of promo shots of her diving into the sea–“sometimes you gotta be in deep waters to find yourself”–in a bottom-accenting one-piece. Look, the businesswoman knows what sells, and she’s peddling something of a lifestyle empire. There was even a Barry’s Bootcamp class to promote the “Training Season” single drop. We all considered going.

Next on the agenda is the career-defining headline slot at Glastonbury. As evidenced by her recent awards show performances, Dua Lipa has put in the work. It will be painstakingly choreographed to the point of appearing effortless, with stagewear that simultaneously shows she has her finger on the emerging designer pulse, but also Donatella on speed dial. She will, by the end of the summer, have us in the palm of her hand like some kind of trustworthy Houdini who has had this planned all along. Or at the very least be something of a leather jacket influencer. Callum has one already.