Lorenzo Serafini envisioned pre-fall as a sort of face-off between the enigmatic appeal of Hitchcock’s 1950s divas and the pared-down sleekness of the 1990s. At a showroom appointment he said that while he was drawn to the magnetism of mysterious femininity, he stayed true to the ease and clarity of design that today’s women expect. His heroine was perhaps more Kim Novak than Grace Kelly—modern, concise charm rather than glacial hauteur.
Mysterious allure notwithstanding, comfort was paramount to Serafini, so much so that all the fabrics in the collection had built-in stretch to make them elastic and easy to move with. Even the hourglass-y shapes he favors and the ample circle skirts paired with fitted turtlenecks were made in unusual blends of mesh and scuba, finely printed to look like masculine wool. Textures spanned from solids to extreme sheers, almost like hosiery. “Sensuality and comfort, that’s what it’s all about,” said Serafini.
There’s always a graceful element to his design; he’s not into overdressing or in-your-face statements. Here the sleek lines inspired by ’90s minimalism were softened by gentle drapings à la Geoffrey Beene, prettifying even the most sinuous silhouettes, or were enhanced by contrasting plays of matte and sheer textures. Outerwear was enveloping and comforting; coats and cabans had a soft and cozy feel, with hooded scarves for going incognito; they nicely complemented feminine ruched dresses cut on the bias. For evening, Serafini twisted masculine fabrics into unconventional sensual silhouettes, or reverted to black bodycon numbers for drama. Even if discretion is part of his vocabulary, going unnoticed isn’t an option.
