If you had to sum up Sicily in just a few words, it’s an island of extremes. Rocky volcanic coastlines give way to white sandy beaches. Crumbling architectural treasures of the ancient world sit next to some of the most theatrical and perfectly preserved paintings of the Baroque. Menus feature hearty pasta dishes next to the freshest raw seafood, while the grandest of five-star luxury accommodations are found alongside meticulously designed boutique hotels and charming farm stays. It’s a cliche, but in Sicily, there’s truly something for everyone.
There’s also never been a better time to visit Sicily than now, with two new five-star hotel openings this summer that promise the utmost comfort in the heart of two of its most beloved cities. So here, find Vogue’s pick of the best places to stay—and of course, the best things to see, do, and eat—on the island that continues to serve at the crossroads of the Mediterranean.
A new guard of luxury hotels
San Domenico Palace sits at the edge of Taormina with Mt. Etna as its dramatic backdrop. Photo: Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts
The highest concentration of five-star hotels in Sicily has historically been found within the town of Taormina, famed for its idyllic cobblestoned streets, pink bougainvillea bursting from balconies, and the ancient Greek amphitheater which plays host to an eclectic lineup of musicians for outdoor concerts under the stars every summer. And last year, a new (or at least, meticulously refurbished) hotel arrived in town, San Domenico Palace—and drew headlines even more recently as the setting of the second season of The White Lotus. While the historic building—originally a monastery, still visible through the original frescos preserved above rooms which have now been converted into lavish suites—has been a hotel since 1986, it reopened in 2021 as the Four Seasons’ new southern Italian jewel. With spectacular views across the bay and over to Mount Etna (best enjoyed by the infinity pool, Aperol spritz in hand), three restaurants, and a can’t-be-beat proximity to Taormina’s most popular shopping street, Corso Umberto, it blends Sicilian charm with the utmost luxury.
The pool at Villa Igiea. Photo: Courtesy of Rocco Forte
The other spot on the island that remains an eternal favorite for intrepid travelers is its capital city, Palermo. There you’ll find Villa Igiea, the latest offering from the Italian-owned (but very much international) hotel group Rocco Forte—just far enough outside the city center to offer peace and quiet, but merely a 10-minute journey from Palermo’s breathtaking historical sites, Sicilian down-home cooking, and of course, the extraordinary architecture that blends epic Norman scale with Arabic flourishes.
Overlooking a tranquil marina and boasting its own private harbor, you’ll also find a sparkling turquoise pool with a brand new restaurant offering fresh fish (whether crudo, tartare, or with a helping of pasta) daily for lunch, a spa featuring Irene Forte’s own skincare line as the star attraction, and spacious rooms with spectacular views. While it’s essential to experience the theatrical bustle of Palermo—whether the shouts of stallholders among the jovial chaos of the Ballaro market, or the city’s younger residents congregating around the bars that line the streets surrounding the Teatro Massimo opera house at the weekend—it’s also nice to be able to step back to somewhere a little calmer. For that, Villa Igiea ticks all the boxes.
The pool and main building of Monaci delle Terre Nere.
Photo: Courtesy of Monaci delle Terre Nere
And while Monaci delle Terre Nere isn’t brand new, per se—the spectacular Relais & Chateaux property situated in the heart of the Etna National Park, overlooking its volcanic slopes (the “terre nere” of the name translates as “black lands”)—a recent overhaul has given one of Sicily’s most beloved and distinctive properties a new lease of life. The service and amenities here are very much five-star, with high-design rooms and villas scattered across its 60 acres of vineyards, olives groves, and rocky volcanic outcrop (yes, there is a golf buggy service to whizz you around if you don’t feel like stretching your legs that day) but the magic of Monaci delle Terre Nere lies in the various ways it rewards a more adventurous traveler.
Just take the head-spinning array of activities on offer. There are botanical walks through the property’s fragrant herb gardens and endless fields of fruit trees, or more ambitious hikes across the dried lava slicks of Mount Etna. (Naturally, bikes and e-bikes are also available for those seeking to explore the extraordinary natural wonders of the surrounding area.) You can laze by the pool, with its sweeping views across the foothills of the volcano and out to the glittering expanse of the Ionian sea, take a morning yoga session, or arrange an in-room treatment. On which note, those rooms: while the central building at Monaci is a striking 19th-century palazzo in a shade of dusty terracotta, each of the 27 rooms spread across the estate feels entirely individual, featuring everything from lava walls to a historic wine press to a cutting-edge floating bed, with an old-meets-new design scheme that somehow seams harmoniously together.
But the real standout at Monaci is the world-class food and wine offering. As a member of the pioneering farm-to-fork Slow Food movement, the main restaurant, Locanda Nerello, is worth visiting even if you aren’t staying at the property, with the majority of produce being either sourced from the farm itself or local (and we mean local) suppliers, resulting in spectacularly fresh updates and riffs on Sicilian staples. And finally, it wouldn’t be a proper stay here without sampling the wine, whose uniquely aromatic properties can be attributed to the volcanic terroir—and is, of course, cultivated on the property. Enjoy it by the pool on a balmy Sicilian afternoon, or at night while sitting outside of your villa, gazing up at the faint red glow of Etna’s crater.
And a host of well-established names, too
Aside from the ancient ruins and all that shopping, Taormina is also famous for the idyllic beaches that run across a series of bays clustered around the base of the town, easily reached by a cable car. But if you’re looking for front-row seats at these small slices of paradise, there are a handful of reliable places to stay, too. First, there’s Villa Sant’Andrea, a private villa converted by Belmond and overlooking the Bay of Mazzarò, with lush subtropical gardens first planted by its aristocratic owners in the 19th century and an atmospheric restaurant overlooking the water.
The terrace of Oliviero Restaurant at Villa Sant’Andrea. Photo: Courtesy of Belmond
The property recently opened Lido Villeggiatura: a family-friendly beach club accessible to both hotel and external guests for the day, complete with plush lounge beds shaded by picturesque blue-and-white umbrellas, private cabanas with butler service, and a beach bar where refreshing drinks and light bites can be savored throughout the day. A nonnegotiable is the house-made granita served next to a warm brioche (order the almond or pistachio flavor), a classic Sicilian treat that’s the perfect late afternoon dessert.
Those looking to maximize water time have two additional options: the adventure-minded can book a private boat tour to dive into the surrounding waters of Taormina and the Isola Bella nature reserve, while those angling for a more low-key jaunt can walk along the craggy coastline and up a rocky staircase to reach the hotel’s infinity pool. Be prepared to take some snaps, as the pool is perched on a cliff with a breathtaking, postcard-like view of the glittering sea and its endless blue.
Photo: Courtesy of Belmond
Guests of Villa Sant’Andrea can easily visit the bustling center of town by hopping onto the hotel’s complimentary shuttle, which leaves on the half hour and takes you directly to its sister hotel—Grand Hotel Timeo, also owned by Belmond, whose rich history as a gathering place for writers and intellectuals from D.H. Lawrence to Jean Cocteau to Truman Capote is matched only by its convenient location right next to the amphitheater and cable car. If time allows during your stay, book a treatment at the Dior Spa, Le Jardin Des Rêves, where appointments are offered in one of two private tree houses decorated in the brand’s Toile de Jouy wallpaper and nestled between the cypresses. Plan to arrive a little early to take in the beauty of the hotel’s lush six-acre gardens, with bougainvillea trellises spilling over the balconies and facades, and towering ferns and fragrant flora lining the gently sloped paths.
Plenty of opportunities to get off the beaten track
Sicily’s landscape is as diverse as the various cultures that have called the island home across the centuries. But venture beyond the most popular locales of Taormina and Palermo, and there are endless discoveries to be made—to name just a few, the pristine beaches surrounding the cities of Trapani and Marsala on the western coast, the crumbling Baroque architecture of the atmospheric island of Ortigia in Siracusa, or the hilltop towns, dust-blown valleys, and dramatic coastline of the island’s south-eastern corner, including cities like Ragusa, Modica, and Noto.
The town of Ragusa at dusk.
Photo: Getty Images
Often described as the crown jewel of the Val di Noto, Noto was rebuilt after a catastrophic 1693 earthquake and has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2002 For those keen to immerse themselves in its 18th-century splendor, there’s arguably no better place to stay than at Seven Rooms Villadorata, a luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the old town and tucked away in the private courtyard of Palazzo Nicolaci.
The converted home of a former tuna magnate-turned-prince, the hotel’s 10 rooms and suites occupy the upper floors of the palazzo, where its Baroque grandeur is fully on display. Thoughtful restorations have allowed the current owner, Cristina Summa, to preserve some of the original finishings, including the colorful floor tilework. Its historic charm is balanced out by the addition of modern-day princely essentials (notably, WiFi) and contemporary artwork from Summa’s own collection. The elegant, high-ceilinged suites feature private balconies that overlook the city’s limestone buildings and churches, which are bathed in golden light at sunrise and sunset. Breakfast is served in camera, with a perfectly frothy cappuccino best enjoyed al fresco.
Photo: Courtesy of Seven Rooms Villadorata
Take advantage of its prime location—just off the main thoroughfare of Corso Vittorio Emanuele—to explore all that Noto has to offer. This includes one of the freshest cannoli you’ll find on the island at Caffè Sicilia, a name which may ring a bell for those who watched Chef’s Table: Pastry. Heavily frequented by both locals and tourists, there’s no wrong time to visit; although mornings are remarkably quiet compared to the post-dinner crowd that flocks there. There are plenty of imposing churches and landmarks to visit during the day, including the ornate Palazzo Castelluccio, an 18th-century palace that French filmmaker Jean-Louis Remilleux acquired in 2011 and spent four years restoring. (Palazzo Castelluccio was bought again this May by luxury hotel group, Rocco Forte, who also owns Villa Igiea, making it well worth a visit before reconstruction begins.)
Photo: Courtesy of Country House Villadorata
Venture off to the countryside for a night at the hotel’s sister property, the eco-resort Country House Villadorata. Set on a former vineyard, the 23-acre hotel is surrounded by almond trees and fragrant citrus and olive groves, which guests can wander through before tucking into dinner at W Villadorata, the hotel’s slow food restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese. Breakfast is a highlight, with its own bounty used to prepare both sweet (homemade yogurt with lemon-infused honey) and savory local dishes (fresh tomato sauce and ricotta).
Il San Corrado di Noto Sicily Luxury ExperiencePhoto: Alfio Garozzo / Courtesy of il San Corrado di Noto
If an oasis is what you seek, you’ll find it a few miles further south at Il San Corrado di Noto, an ancient masseria transformed into a boutique resort in 2022 in refined, minimalist taste. A Relais & Châteux property, the hotel’s magic lies in its white-washed expansiveness, with eight sprawling pool villas and 26 suites offering an unrivaled sense of seclusion and serenity both from and in the natural landscape. A short shuttle ride to the hotel’s private beach club provides a welcome escape from the heat, though, for more instant relief, you can take a quick dip in one of the property’s two pools immediately upon check-in.
Indulge in a fine dining experience by reserving a table at the on-site restaurant, Principe di Belludia (which includes the impressively-stocked wine cellar, Cantina). Or, keep things casual at Osteria Casa Pasta, where wood-fired vegetables and freshly caught fish are served poolside under the stars. Wake up a little earlier than usual to play an energizing game of tennis on its grass court, or ease into the day with an intimate yoga session held in the gazebo before exploring the neighboring seaside charm of Ortigia and Marzamemi.
Arco dell’Elefante, a popular swimming spot on the island of Pantelleria.Photo: Getty Images
For truly adventurous spirits, there’s also the spectacular island of Pantelleria, perhaps best-known internationally for serving as the backdrop to Luca Guadagnino’s decadent 2015 psychological drama A Bigger Splash, starring Tilda Swinton swanning around the island’s epic landscapes as a Bowie-esque rockstar in a full wardrobe of Raf Simons-designed Dior couture. Mere decades ago the island was barely known outside of Italy, gaining international recognition partly thanks to Giorgio Armani’s dramatic, sprawling estate on the north side of the island, while other celebrity vacationers in the past have included Madonna, Julia Roberts, and Sting.
The pool area at Sikelia.Photo: Courtesy of Sikelia
With its wild winds, windy roads, and rugged landscape, it’s often said that Pantelleria is “the island with no beaches,” although there are dozens upon dozens of stunning coves in which to take a dip. And if you’re looking for a little slice of luxury while you’re there, one hotel stands head and shoulders above the rest. To enter Sikelia through its impressive golden door, located near the charming town of Scauri on the island’s south side, is to step into your own little fortress featuring just 19 individually decorated suites. Blending the earthy minimalism of the traditional dammusi they were built from with more opulent touches like Frette linens and contemporary artworks, the holistic aesthetic vision for the hotel—spearheaded by its colorful owner, former basketball player Giulia Gelmetti—beautifully echo the colors and textures of the island itself.
Photo: Courtesy of Sikelia
A highlight here is the dining, which manages to add gourmet flourishes while still remaining unfussy, with a particular highlight, inevitably, being the seafood. Under the guidance of Executive Chef Diego Battaglia, the restaurant’s food offering reflects Pantelleria’s unique location which actually hems closer to that of Tunisia than Sicily itself, incorporating Arab and North African elements into his riffs on the classic Sicilian ingredients of sea urchin, red prawns, and swordfish. Make sure you spend an evening at the hotel’s vineyard, Coste Ghirlanda—located a mere 10-minute drive away—where you can watch the stars before taking in a tasting menu under the care of chef Luca Mastromattei.
The dining area at the Coste Ghirlanda vineyard, owned by Sikelia. Photo: Courtesy of Sikelia
Explore the volcanic islands beloved by locals
Just off the north coast, accessible by a regular ferry and hydrofoil schedule from the port town of Milazzo, sit the volcanic archipelago of the Aeolian Islands: still a relatively unspoiled corner of Sicily, these seven islands are the perfect destination for those seeking untouched natural beauty and true seclusion. (Especially for those willing to travel to the more low-key spots of Filicudi, Alicudi, and Stromboli.) For anyone who wants to get the Aeolian experience while still maintaining their creature comforts, the islands to head to, however, are Lipari, Salina, and Panarea.
The town of Lipari, Lipari Islands, Aeolian Islands, Italy, EuropePhoto: Getty Images
There are few places better to appreciate the Aeolian pace of life than at Capofaro, which boasts one of the most breathtaking settings in all of Sicily. Just a 10-minute drive from the port at Santa Marina Salina (a quietly glamorous destination for restaurants and boutique shopping in its own right), the Relais & Chateaux hotel is perched at the edge of a clifftop, with the main building housed in a historic lighthouse that still glows in the evening, and the rest of the property’s 27 rooms spread across a series of whitewashed outbuildings, lending it a similar feel to the picturesque villages that dot the nearby coastline but entirely private. The interiors carry a subdued chic, decorated with breezy linen in gray and white and wicker furniture; wandering around the property, it’s clear that the visitors it attracts are as stylish as the surroundings.
Photo: Tommaso Pini / Courtesy of Capofaro
A shuttle will happily whisk you away to the nearby towns or a charmingly low-key beach club on the south coast of the island, but you’ll be just as happy whiling the days away by the pool—which is, conveniently, located right next to the restaurant area. As the greenest of the Aeolians, Salina has a remarkable agricultural heritage that Capofaro fully honors, whether through the fresh capers you’ll find woven through your spaghetti to lend it that unmistakable salty tang, or studded in ice cream for dessert (it’s surprisingly delicious), or the wine made from the distinctive malvasia leaves grown on the estate.
If it’s a slightly glitzier experience you’re seeking from your Aeolian vacation (nobody does a glamorous holiday like the Italians, after all), then make a beeline for the island of Vulcano—and more specifically, to Therasia Resort. Once again situated on a jaw-dropping location spread across the edge of a cliff face—there are multiple swimming pools that have been built into its jutting edges, which lead all the way down to the sea if you want to take a dip there, too—the sprawling estate houses 97 rooms (in which you’ll find every mod-con from TVs to high-speed Wi-Fi) yet still somehow manages to retain an air of tranquility.
Courtesy of Therasia Resort
Then, there are the hotel’s four restaurants to try, two of which are Michelin-starred: first, Il Cappero, where impossibly fresh, playfully realized seafood fishes are the star and with unparalleled views over to the neighboring islands of Lipari and Salina; and I Tenerumi, located up a winding pathway at the back of the estate surrounded by greenery, and where you can sample an ever-changing seasonal menu of inventive vegetarian and vegan dishes by chef Davide Guidara, who was awarded the Michelin award for best young chef this year. As the sun dips below the horizon and fades into an impossibly scenic Aeolian sunset, you couldn’t find a better backdrop if you tried.
Some of the best seafood in Italy
Eating in Sicily is often a case of following your nose, with many of the island’s greatest culinary highlights found in its most unassuming places. This is partly thanks to the rich culture of street food, best tasted in open-air markets; from the now world-famous arancini to the traditional peasant food of sfincione, a pizza-like snack topped with tomato sauce and breadcrumbs. The island’s unique history of cultural cross-pollination (more on that later) has also given rise to a number of ingredients you might be surprised to find on an Italian menu, whether couscous from North Africa, raisins from Persia, or sesame seeds from the Levant. (Pistachios, eggplant, oranges, olives, almonds, and prickly pears also feature heavily in Sicily’s colorful cuisine.)
Raw sardines for aperitivo at the fish market Piscaria in Catania. Photo: Getty Images
But of course, the real highlight of eating your way around Sicily is the sheer range and lip-smacking freshness of the seafood. In Palermo, there are endless options for down-home Sicilian cooking, with a notable absence of the typical tourist trap restaurants that often line the main thoroughfares of popular Italian cities. (Osteria Nonna Dora, Trattoria Trapani, and Osteria dei Vespri are all reliable go-tos.) For a more contemporary take on the island’s tradition of seafood, visit L’Ottava Nota in the city’s cosmopolitan Kalsa district for ceviche or amberjack tataki, or A’Cuncuma, which offers a tasting menu that journeys through the flavors of Sicily from both the sea and the earth.
If you’re looking for something sweet, Sicilian pastries are of course the stuff of legend, from cannoli to ricotta-stuffed cassatelle. A perennial favorite and something of a Palermo institution is Pasticceria Cappello, conveniently found just steps from the tourist hotspot of the Palazzo dei Normanni, which serves all the classic Sicilian dolci along with their famous setteveli cake, featuring seven layers of chocolate and hazelnuts.
In Taormina, you’ll find a number of more gourmet options, including two Michelin-starred restaurants working at the forefront of contemporary Sicilian cooking. First, there’s Otto Geleng found in the heart of the Grand Hotel Timeo, which features just eight tables overlooking the Bay of Naxos with spectacular views of Etna and inventive riffs on traditional Sicilian dishes by chef Roberto Toro. Then, in The Ashbee Hotel—another popular option for stays in Taormina—there’s St. George by Heinz Beck, which is headed up by one of the youngest Michelin-star chefs in Italy, Delfo Schiaffino.
The Otto Geleng restaurant at Grand Hotel Timeo in Taormina. Photo: Courtesy of Belmond
If you make it all the way to Pantelleria, make sure you stop by Osteria il Principe e il Pirata near the idyllic village of Gadir, known to be a favorite of Giorgio Armani’s whenever he hosts guests at his nearby holiday home. Start with grilled octopus or mackerel before enjoying homemade linguine or tagliolini with fresh seafood—all caught off the coast that morning, naturally.
A treasure trove of ancient and Baroque art
Sicily is often referred to as the crossroads of the Western world, not just for its prime location in the center of the Mediterranean, but also for the melting pot of cultures and ethnicities that form Sicily today, borne out of the island’s many millennia of being variously occupied by the Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, French, Spanish, and even the Swiss. Each of these various cultures left an indelible mark on the island—and nowhere is that more visible than in the rich array of art and architecture that can be found in every corner.
The amphitheater at Segesta.Photo: Getty Images
For those with a particular interest in the ancient world, the Valley of the Temples near the town of Agrigento—as well as the ruins of the ancient cities of Segesta and Selinunte on the island’s west coast—offer some of the best-preserved and most jaw-dropping examples of ancient Greek architecture outside of the Acropolis. Meanwhile, if the Romans are more your thing, the extraordinary mosaics found at the Villa Romana del Casale, a short drive from the charming town of Piazza Armerina, offer an insight into the whimsical decor of an ancient holiday home, from exotic animals being transported from Africa to Europe to bikini-clad gymnasts.
Mosaics at the Villa Romana del Casale near Piazza Armerina. Photo: Getty Images
Sicily’s second heyday came during the 17th and 18th centuries when it was part of the Spanish Empire, resulting in a number of flourishing cities packed to the brim with lavish Baroque architecture. For fans of Caravaggio, two of his paintings can be found in Messina and Siracusa, while a third, found in the Oratory of San Lorenzo in Palermo, exists now merely as a replica, but with a fascinating backstory involving a Mafia robbery. Following an earthquake in 1693 that devastated much of the southeast, cities like Noto and Ragusa were reborn as elaborate and highly theatrical visions of Sicily’s distinctive take on the late Baroque style, and still impress with their faded grandeur.
The cathedral in Ortigia, Siracusa. Photo: Getty Images
Finally, for those seeking something a little more cutting-edge, the island has a handful of contemporary art gems too. First up is Palazzo Riso in Palermo, which houses a number of works by artists from the arte povera movement of the 1960s and ’70s including Jannis Kounellis, Carla Accardi, and Giovanni Anselmo, as well as international artists such as Richard Long and Christian Boltanski. (For bibliophiles, there’s also a well-curated bookshop and a cafe.) If it’s contemporary Sicilian artists you’re looking for, Palermo also boasts a thriving gallery scene, including Francesco Pantaleone Arte Contemporanea (FPAC), Nuvole Incontri d’Arte, and RizzutoGallery.
Some of Europe’s most unspoiled beaches
Of course, a holiday wouldn’t be a holiday without a dip in the ocean—and once again, Sicily has you more than covered. To find its best beaches, there are two regions worth exploring. First and foremost, there are the pristine sandy shores of the island’s west coast, most notably around the cities of Trapani and Marsala, lapped by turquoise-blue Mediterranean waters that stay warm even into the fall. (Some of the best-known include San Vito lo Capo, Tonnara di Scopello, Cala Marinella, and Marakaiobbo, but for more intrepid explorers there are plenty of more off-the-beaten-track coves to be discovered too.)
Bathers at the Scala dei Turchi beach on the southern coast of the island.Photo: Getty Images
The other place to find some of the island’s most gorgeous swimming destinations is at its southwestern tip in the provinces of Ragusa and Siracusa, with many in tricky-to-reach spots that more than reward the extra effort, such as the picture-postcard Calamosche or the nearby and slightly more accessible Marianelli. Just make sure you pack arancini for lunch, sunscreen, and plenty of water.
And if you’re in the region and feeling particularly adventurous, take a trip to the Cavagrande del Cassibile nature reserve, an enormous canyon full of scenic trekking trails that remains one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets. The ultimate highlight? After a long journey deep into the valley, you’ll find a network of crystal-clear lakes, waterfalls, and rock pools to cool off as the sun begins to fall behind the top of the canyon. The perfect end to a perfect day out.
