It’s not the destination that matters, but the path you take to reach it. The journey is an ongoing discovery, and that’s where Andrea Adamo began his spring collection. After a season of absence, he returned to the runway thanks to the support of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. “I want to show the determination that drives me to keep challenging myself,” said the designer. His tears at the end of the show and the palpable emotion already present during the fittings a few days before were a reminder of how difficult it is to find a balance and to enjoy oneself when navigating the fashion system. Especially when you’re “small” and independent.
Perhaps that’s why he brought his girls to a nightclub. He was on the other side of the globe last summer when he re-explored that sense of freedom that only the night can offer. The runway reflected the experience of letting go. Stripping away the inherent taboos of body sexualization, he transformed nudity into a state of mind. Nude 01, Nude 02, Nude 03, like shades of skin, are the colors that have defined his stylistic identity since day one. The clothes’ lines embraced the body’s form, approaching without constraining it, but the more form-fitting silhouettes alternated with volumes that were new in the designer’s lexicon. Miniskirts and balloon pants in georgette, sometimes open at the sides but always tight at the ankle, were paired with Aviator-style leather bombers or knitted tops, which continue to serve as a dictionary to understanding the language of Andreadamo.
Layering bodysuits, garments that hide pockets, see-through organza dresses, knitwear crafted in mesh or stripes using transparent thread, stretch corsets used as bustiers over tailored suits: everything spoke of a gritty and never predictable femininity. Sensuality burst forth in the trompe-l’œil dresses and tops, where the naked body was an optical illusion created by hand airbrushing the garments. Fringes—in knit, crunchy sequins or crystals—enhanced movement, creating precious fluid sculptures. The attitude was a kind of power dressing that became contemporary in a narrative of liberated eroticism. That’s how the collection revealed all the energy we need.
