Of the nearly 60 Akris looks that were shown in the Gothic hall of the Collège des Bernardins, its stone vaulting dating back centuries, many featured applications of sheerness without exposing the body. Cascades of “techno tulle,” tiered waves of floaty tulle, and organza in single and multiple configurations—they all underscored a material lightness in calm contrast to the solid stone surroundings. “What does it help when we create sheerness that cannot be worn,” said Albert Kriemler about a collection that was aptly named Flou and Pragmatism (flou referring to the fluidity and draping carried out by dressmakers).
From the opening ecru layers to the pastel tones of pink and peach toward the end, the lineup was sophisticated and easy on the eyes. This can be traced back to Kriemler visiting the Camera degli Sposi in Mantua, Italy, where the frescoes of Andrea Mantegna convey his ethereal way with color.
While clean lines and subtle design details are emblematically Akris, the flou made a forward impression; as though the soft asymmetric cuts and transparent layers contained all nuances while introducing some edge. For all the delicate assertions of flou, there were sporty pieces in supple leather and jackets deliberately proportioned so that everything balanced out. “It was the perfect season to play with those second and third dimensions in layering,” said Kriemler.
His interest in Mantegna and the early Renaissance artists was prompted by the costumes he designed for Epilogue, John Neumeier’s final ballet as chief choreographer and director of the Hamburg Ballet, which nodded to the more saturated crimsons and ochres of Piero della Francesca. By the time the clothes are complete, all these art inspirations that underpin each Akris collection are barely discernible. They inform the creation process rather than appearing explicitly. And knowing this, you can better appreciate how 15th-century robes might evolve to a flounced minidress—a graceful simplicity inherent to each.
As Akris is widely known for attracting women in high-ranking roles, from actors to politicians, my eye was continuously scanning for something Kamala Harris might be inclined to wear. “With politicians, it happens; you don’t really go for it,” Kriemler said diplomatically. If not the flou, then any one of the water-repellent parkas or raffia knits in warm beige. Or if a bag is needed, the compact, top-handle Alice (named after Akris founder Alice Kriemler-Schoch) would qualify as pragmatic…and presidential.
