Tate Britain provided a majestic backdrop for Oslo-based Holzweiler’s fall show today, its second in London. Contrasting with the neoclassical backdrop, the latest collection drew inspiration from the enigmatic worlds of mycelium and fungi. “When Susanne [Holzweiler, cofounder] visited the museum and saw artist Anya Gallaccio’s beautiful floral installations, known as Preserve Beauty, with their theme of decay, she knew it was the perfect venue for our show,” explained creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler at a preview.
It soon became evident that fungi motifs permeated not only the silhouettes but also the prints, colors, and textures of the collection. Take the opening look, a lavender cotton maxidress accentuated at the waist with a butter yellow mesh tube that was topped with a mint-hued puffer worn upside down to evoke the shape of a chanterelle mushroom. Another ensemble (mesh tube dress layered over a shirt and trousers) featured a psychedelic swirly print that evoked the explosion of spores from delicate puffball mushrooms when touched. It was accessorized with an oversized scarf in a pattern that echoed the intricate pattern of mycelium. Souped-up puffer jackets, some floor grazing, came with ultra-voluminous button mushroom–like roundness. There were less literal interpretations on the theme, too, such as knitted denim skirt suits and gauze-knit trouser-and-cardigan sets, along with pristine suede zip-up jackets and crocheted off-the-shoulder sweaterdresses.
The intention with the menswear collection—which serves as the “sibling to the womenswear, yet embodies its own separate lifestyle,” as Maria explained—was to focus on the forager rather than the mushroom itself. Earth-toned suits in shades of chestnut, chocolate, and umber were finished with boxy shoulders and relaxed-fit pants (albeit slimmer than previous seasons). Shaggy bouclé cardigans resembled the texture of lion’s mane mushrooms, while weathered leather and canvas bombers showcased cargo pockets, perhaps suited for mushroom picking. All in all, the collection leaned toward a darker, muddier aesthetic while staying true to Holzweiler’s utilitarian universe.
