From the Archives: 26 Vintage Treasures You Need Now, According to Jenny Walton

Few people know vintage like Jenny Walton—and even fewer wear vintage like Jenny Walton. It’s for this reason the girl about town (Milan, at the moment) has such a following. The key to pulling off her vintage looks (which span several decades) is her styling prowess. Think a vintage brooch with a modern-day Prada cashmere cardigan or a 1950s circle skirt with the latest Gucci slingbacks. But first, where is she getting these pieces? A vintage shopper rarely reveals her sources, but just for Vogue, Walton is sharing the wealth. Each month, Walton will comb through the World Wide Web and share what she feels are the best vintage buys of the moment. These are the vintage treasures you need now, according to Walton.

With December being the peak of the holiday season, this month I have decided to focus on…gifts. Now before you get all fussy, “This is my lunch break! I don’t want to think about others!” Don’t worry, they’re mainly gifts for you. Because after all, what is a purchase for oneself, if not a gift? (It’s called self-care…thank you very much!) And who knows you better than you anyway, amirite?

Now that shouldn’t stop you from sending these links along to loved ones with a nice little wink, wink. 

As with all good things, there is a wonderful mix of some great deals, along with some pricier pieces that I consider investments (and should hopefully hold their value quite well). This is the sweet spot of shopping second-hand designer. Not only are you making an environmentally-friendly choice, but you are also buying pieces of quality that should maintain their value, if not steadily increase with time.

As is always advisable with vintage, if you like it, snag it! There is only one after all. Take a moment to view the measurements, which should typically be provided, as vintage sizing is inconsistent. A good general rule is if it’s too big, you can always have it tailored to you. However, I try not to alter the iconic pieces too much, as I do view them as works of art (and altering them can hurt their value).

Happy Shopping!

Baci, Jenny

Prada Fall 2013 Blue Gingham Skirt Suit

Someone call Cary Grant, because it’s giving Hitchcock Blonde. One of my favorite looks from one of the best Prada seasons of all time as said by me and also God, a.k.a. Tim Blanks. This gingham skirt suit is so timeless and would be worn beautifully with a navy sweater and a classic hairdo. Or I would modernize it like they did on the runway with that gorgeous wet hair look and towering platform sandals (delicious!)

Early Victorian Paste Earrings in Silver over Gold, circa 1840’s

If you love the look and feel of antique diamond jewelry, but don’t have the budget for such indulgences, might I suggest antique paste? Paste jewelry is made from glass that is hand-cut so that it looks like diamonds. Wear yours to events where the majority of guests will be heavily inebriated, and not a soul will be able to tell the difference!

S.T. Dupont Limited Edition Picasso Lighter

As if you needed one more reason not to vape! This perfect S.T. Dupont Limited Edition Picasso Lighter is numbered 1943 out of a limited edition of 6000, and while you might not be able to afford a Picasso, this is not far off (not to mention more useful; it works on candles, too!). If you are not familiar, the French “S.T. Dupont” makes the best lighters in the world, so these make a great gift in general.

Gio Ponti, set of four “soliflores,” stamped 1960s

I have two of these “soliflore” (bud vases). When I relocated to Milan, I really wanted something designed by the legend Gio Ponti in my apartment but unfortunately his furniture was simply out of budget. I first saw a whole mess of these at a Dimore Studio opening and fell in love. They make a good contribution in my effort to make my apartment una piccola Villa Necchi! (A girl can dream.)

Prada Pale Pink Silk Shift Dress

From the Spring 2013 Prada Collection, I present what is possibly the most perfect little pink shift dress ever. Not a bad price either, considering you would easily spend this much for a new look at even a high street retailer. Yes, my masters degree is in girl math, why do you ask?

Le Corbusier, Charlotte Perriand Ashtray for Lumax

God, I love a vintage ashtray. This is my favorite of all time. As chic and classic as an ice cube. Don’t worry if you don’t smoke. I keep my Santa Maria Novella potpourri in mine. To me this piece is the perfect example of great, simple design. Buy it once and you’ll never need to buy another ashtray again (but you will because they’re so fun)!

Prada AW1998 Rare Runway Wool Stitched Coat

A great price for a very rare coat—seriously, are you ready for The Met to call you up one day asking if they can borrow this for an exhibit? Because it’s going to happen. Perfect nineties minimalism, baby. Not to mention The Row made red coats trend again, so grab this one and save approximately $9,000.

Hermès Kelly Watch

This is my favorite watch (ever!?). Somehow it hasn’t had the same resurgence as the Tank, but I think it’s equally chic and even more unique. The going price for these makes them a great entry watch if you’re also looking for the added value of something that moonlights as jewelry.

Hermès Feux Du Ciel Scarf

My heart skips a beat when a second-hand Hermès listing proclaims, “Includes box!” You know why? Because these scarves make the perfect gift! Not to mention you can almost always find one themed to the interest of the person you are looking to surprise (unless the person just likes video games or something, in which case, maybe just get them a video game).

Cartier Panthère de Cartier 1925 Watch

If you love classic Cartier but are tired of seeing a Tank everywhere you turn, this Panthère de Cartier 1925 watch is the alternative for you. I know I said the Hermès Kelly was my favorite women’s watch, but now I need to rephrase that, the Hermès Kelly is my favorite watch—in my budget—and I purchased one from Vestiaire a few years ago that I negotiated down to around $700. This would be my favorite watch if my boyfriend was William, the fictional boyfriend of the most beautiful woman on TikTok, or if, you know, I was a Walmart Walton. (Sadly for my bank account, we are unrelated.) Featuring 18K white gold and a green croc strap, this watch will be sure to make people utter that forgotten phrase, “Do you have the time?”

Another iteration in gold available here but it will cost you about double. William?! Are you there?!

Hermès Riding Boot

You can rarely go wrong with a vintage Hermès riding boot and this pair is no exception. I love the patina and worn feeling of these, someone like Ralph Lauren would spend thousands just to achieve this perfectly weathered look. If you are less drawn to the worn-in aesthetic, a more modern version can be found here.

Cartier Must de Cartier Watch

Lately I’ve been leaving my phone at home when I go out in a concentrated attempt to disconnect (it’s not really working, as I always end up seeing something I want to photograph). It has, however, been a great reason to start wearing watches again. (Although famously Andy Warhol didn’t even wind his Tank. He said he didn’t wear it to tell time, he wore it simply because it was the watch to wear). Introduced in the mid 1970s, the Must de Cartier Tank is less expensive than the traditional Tank as they are made from vermeil (gold-plated silver) instead of the traditional gold. If you’re new to the world of watches, a vintage Must de Cartier is a wonderful entry point. I love the brown lizard strap on this one and the patina just adds to the overall character.

Celine Macadam Vanity Bag

Is there anything chicer than a vanity bag? I usually just throw my things in a shoe dust-bag when I’m traveling, but lately I’ve been looking to elevate my travel experience and have been interested in vanity and toiletry bags. There are so many great Celine Macadam versions out there that feel slightly less overexposed than their Louis Vuitton patterned counterparts. (Interesting unofficial history of the Macadam print here.)

Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Round Bottle Pendant Necklace

A perfectly timeless gift! Not to mention a major part of modern jewelry design history! The bottle pendant was one of the first designs that prolific jewelry designer Elsa Peretti made for Tiffany & Co., with whom she started working in 1974. Peretti was inspired by the young girls in Portofino who carried gardenias, and thereafter created this design, meant to keep a flower alive. So yes, you can, and should, put a single flower in the bottle. (You can find a larger version available here.)

Hermès Craie Epsom Passport Cover New in Box

Surprising someone with a trip this Christmas? Why not also give them a chic passport holder and put the ticket inside? (Wow, I’m so cute, someone please date me). There are a lot of great versions out there but this one seems so chic (and comes with the box)! One of my greatest serotonin triggers.

Gianfranco Ferre Vintage 1990s Peacoat

It’s surprisingly difficult to find a great vintage coat, but this one somehow ticks all the boxes. This vintage wool coat by Gianfranco Ferre is so chic you could tell people it’s new The Row or Khaite and no one would even bat an eyelash. Equal parts warm and cool, this shade of gray is heaven for me. Wear it with absolutely everything—immediately!

Louis Vuitton 3-Piece Monogram Boxing Glove Set

Fight your in-laws in style this holiday season with this three-piece monogram Louis Vuitton boxing set from the 2014 collection. You can remove the gloves and use the case to store the alcohol you will surely need! (Joking, joking… I swear.)

Bob Mackie Vintage Long Dress

Nothing says hostess with the mostess, quite like a vintage Bob Mackie dress. Did I mention it’s 50% off?! Once it gets over 150 favorites on TheRealReal, we’ve entered dangerous “someone is about to buy this” territory. Grab it first!

Louis Vuitton Cerises Monogram Small Ring Agenda Cover

As we continuously try to separate ourselves from the omnipresent technology of our time (heavy sigh), I find something like a sweet little agenda so comforting, not to mention another great gift. I’m currently back in school studying Italian, and it really is incredible how much better you feel physically writing versus always typing (she typed prolifically, from her laptop keyboard). Plus, if you give someone a gift that they’ll use everyday, they’ll think about you daily. Aww! Manipulation!

Loewe 2023 Knee-Length Dress w/ Tags

Spring 2023 Loewe runway statement piece alert! Wow! 70% off original retail price!  Not to mention it would make a great base for a Christmas tree outfit, I mean…costume? No, no, I mean outfit.

Jean Paul Gaultier Vintage Late 1980s – Early 1990s Faux Fur Coat

I constantly want to wear old antique men’s tailcoats but sometimes it feels just a bit too costume-y. The open side seams of this vintage Jean Paul Gaultier coat straddles the line between traditional and modern, perfectly.

The Row Square Neckline Long Dress

Almost everyone wants to dress like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, but we often get pulled into the flashier items—looking at you, Louis Vuitton boxing gloves—that we forget just how easy dressing in a more simplistic, refined manner can be. To achieve that, you just have to pull back a bit. (Have you noticed that CBK never wore any jewelry?) If you feel more comfortable in a pant, this Helmut Lang set is equally timeless and very well priced.

Moschino Coat

Did you also find yourself falling in love with The Row’s viral red coat this Fall, but sadly did not find yourself with $9,990 dollars to spare, on a coat?! If you find the collar on this Moschino Cheap and Chic version a bit devoid of shape, this “young pope” option should do the trick. If you’re looking for something a bit more classic, this one by Genny is a knockout and looks much more expensive than it actually is.

The Row Midi Length Skirt

I know this one might seem boring, but it’s so rare to find a simple, beautiful black skirt with no extraneous details. This one is a great deal at 79% off (a major deal for The Row), and of course as everything featured in this column, it’s second-hand. Which is so much cooler than buying new, isn’t it?

Vintage Cartier Leather Handbag

I’ve made no secret of my recent love affair with vintage Cartier bags (sorry for cheating on you Speedy’s, but they are priced so well). I scored a vintage one online the other day for 60 euros! This one in particular is a bit more expensive, but so stunning. Perfect shape, perfect color, and perfect for this time of year. It’s the best one I’ve found yet.

A.P.C. Cotton Navy Coat

This is the type of simple piece that everyone should have in their wardrobe and yet we often forget about these items and go for the flashier ones. Big mistake! Huge! A great price-per-wear guaranteed on this one (there’s that #GirlMath degree coming in handy again).

October

I’ve been shopping vintage for as long as I can remember. After recently relocating from New York to Milan, I’ve noticed how much the older Italians specifically, hold onto and take care of their clothing. The clothes are worn, no like, really worn – and that makes them personal. Beyond the irrefutable sustainable and economic benefits, vintage has that glorious attribute of granting you immediate access into the world of personal style. Think of it like the fashion fast pass – autostrada avanti ragazzi!

Equally serving, is its ability to add an instant injection of fun into your wardrobe. It’s a place to indulge yourself, take risks, and get a little…weird. With Halloween comes the perfect opportunity to dive into this eccentric world.

Albeit more lighthearted than the holidays that follow, Halloween kicks off the season, and what I’m usually craving this time of year is something with a bit of a twist to it. I don’t want it to be too serious – I want to wear it with a wink. Whether that be a Moschino Couture suit with Ed Ruscha-esque cursive “Secrets” and “Desire” embroidered across its hemlines or a Gaultier dress that quite literally transforms you into a goddess, why not this season use fashion as an icebreaker?

That’s why this month I’ve hunted down items with a bit of a surrealist spin to them, trompe l’oeil galore! As someone who carried around a plastic pigeon as a purse the majority of last year, trust me, you will have fun and make new friends, absolutely…everywhere you go.

As is always advisable with vintage, if you like it, snag it! There is only one after all. Take a moment to view the measurements, which should typically be provided as vintage sizing is inconsistent. A good general rule is if it’s too big, you can always have it tailored to you. However, I try not to alter the iconic pieces too much, as I do view them as works of art (and altering them can hurt their value).

Happy Shopping!

Baci, Jenny

Moschino Couture Eyes Bustier (circa 1990)

With this top, you will finally be able to confound men by saying, “Hey! My eyes are down here!” It will be your perfect opening line, so buy this top before I do, because god, am I tempted (for the conversational aspects alone). Fashion, as an ice breaker, is fashion in its highest form (this coming from the woman who bought the Pigeon purse…naturally).

Silk Chiffon Beaded Dress (circa 1920s)

An absolute steal for this 1920s trompe l’oeil beaded dress (you try looking this fresh after one hundred years). Endlessly chic. Consider cutting your hair into a bob shortly after purchase.

Jean Paul Gaultier Graffiti Goddess Dress (circa 1999)

Newly added to sale (40% off and god knows why), this iconic piece by Jean Paul Gaultier is sure to fly off the metaphorical rack. One of these is currently in the collection of the V&A Museum…now isn’t that more enticing than, say…a new season D&G?

Prada Tromp L’oeil Pleated Skirt (circa 2004)

It’s hard to give you all the good links, and yet here I am, doing just that. These iconic Prada pieces are so hard to find. Seems to be in very good condition and despite being almost 20 years old, it looks as modern as ever. Would wear it immediately with a black knit and kitten heels (Prada, of course).

Comme Des Garçons Iconic Lumps and Bumps Top and Skirt Set (circa 1997)

If you want to own a piece of fashion history, well park your car right here. I love this ensemble for the fall. It’s the perfect mix of colorful and subdued. Not to mention that crisscrossing red gingham has the fabulous visuality of acidic red spiderwebs. Spooky indeed!

Vintage Floral Printed Dress (circa 1950s)

A perfect fall palette and a great price to look like you just walked out of a Hitchcock film. Not to mention there’s something just the right amount of twisted about a sour green rose.

Jean Paul Gaultier Jeans Printed Trompe L’Oeil Skirt (circa 1990s)

You know those days when you can’t decide if you want to wear jeans or a skirt? Well consider your incredibly weighty problems, solved.

Gianfranco Ferré Leather Gloves with Fringe

If you don’t add these to your scarecrow costume, what are you doing? Don’t let them sit in a box for one more Halloween, dear god please! Good fashion deserves to be worn. And by the genius Gianfranco Ferré, these are just too good to pass up.

Sonia Rykiel Navy Knit Dress with Trompe L’Oeil Diamanté

I just love this easy knit dress with the chicest glittering trompe l’oeil diamanté. So easy to dress up or down and because it’s knit, less restrictive than most vintage. People will constantly stop to ask you where it’s from to which you can effortlessly answer “vintage darling, vintage.”

Moschino Couture Embroidered Words Top and Skirt

I saw this fantastic set after going to the Ed Ruscha retrospective at the MoMA and it reminded me so much of his fabulous “word” paintings that I’ve been thinking about it ever since.

Schiaparelli Diamante Spider Necklace

If this doesn’t perfectly sum up October, then I don’t know what would. It’s perfect in every way and would wear effortlessly with a little black dress.

Marc Jacobs Black Waxed Satin Dress

It’s such a great moment to be on the lookout for old Marc Jacobs pieces, as I believe their value will greatly increase over time. I love the trompe l’oeil effect of the pleated netted tulle along the hem. So delicate and charming.

Bob Mackie Vintage Dress (Circa 1980’s)

This is another case of “if you don’t buy this I will.” Vintage Bob Mackie?! 80% off?! A perfect party dress to carry you through all of your upcoming festivities. Would look great with a black pump and some pearls. If you need inspiration, put on Whit Stillman’s Metropolitan (1990).

Halston Vintage Long Dress (circa late 70s – early 80s)

There are few things chicer than showing up just about anywhere in a vintage Halston dress. But add some Elsa Peretti adornments and you’ll be the talk of the town. Side note, imagine how much you can eat in this thing!

Marc Jacobs Sequin Top Handle Bag (circa 2010)

An incredible deal (I’ve seen these bags go for as much as $1,500). Not to mention it’s from one of my personal favorite Marc Jacobs collections—Fall 2010. Look at the show for inspiration on how to wear her, but I would suggest sumptuous wool and cashmere coats in varying shades of gray to really make those glittering sequins pop!

Marc Jacobs Striped Long Dress

Rarely has there been such a divine time to shop Marc Jacobs. The clothes themselves are of wonderful value and yet their resale value seems to be at a historic low. But we’re not playing the short game are we? No! We’re fashion lovers, and we’re in it for the long haul. What goes down must come up, and I’m sure the value of these pieces will rise once again (but enjoy the prices now while you can!)

Jean Paul Gaultier Trompe L’Oeil Sheer Tuxedo Print Dress (Circa FW 1996)

A truly iconic look from Gaultier, that quite literally says, business in the front, party in the back.

Dries Van Noten “Top?”

There are few things in life as delicious as a Dries Van Noten purchase. While I’m not completely convinced that this is a top—The Real Real has been known to make mistakes; I once bought a yellow beaded Dries Shawl that was labeled as a belt*—*does that really matter? Wear it how you like! That’s the fun of fashion anyway.

Unbranded Knee-Length Dress

If this dress was Prada, it would easily be $2,000. That’s why I love buying unbranded vintage when it comes to the embellished, embroidered, etc. This would work so well for “that fun party dress” to have in your closet. Transform it every time you wear it by changing up your hair, makeup, etc. (I would wear with a block cloche and a long string of pearls.)

Prada Embroidered Silk Coat (circa 2012)

Although originally from a spring collection, to me this coat has the perfect fall palette. Such a standout piece. It was recently listed and I’ve never seen this colorway for sale before (much more common is the slate gray CC with white and periwinkle embroidery).

Christian Dior by Marc Bohan Satin Pleated Feather Turban (circa 1960s)

People are decidedly not having enough fun with hats. What fun people used to have with hats! And some designers are trying (The Row’s recent forays, although minimal, come to mind). Marc Bohan for Dior is the crème de la crème of hat history, so it’s worth the splurge to have a part of fashion history in your wardrobe. Go on! Have some fun.

Prada Runway Dress (circa 2007)

From one of the best collections of all time (I have it in green, in the suit version). These pieces often fetch closer to $1,500 so it’s a great price for an iconic piece from arguably the greatest designer of our time. Would look great with a croc-embossed kitten heel or a good boot.

Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton Sequin Speedy (circa 2012)

I’ve been predicting the return of the speedy in a big way, for a few months now. I think they’ll be gaining a lot of traction this year, particularly with Pharrell as the newly appointed men’s creative director (Jonathan Anderson recently posted a green printed speedy by Pharrell) Personally, I would opt for one of the very special ones that Marc Jacobs created for the brand, such as the sequin example below.

Stella McCartney Banana Top for Chloe (circa 2001)

It’s hard to find basics that have that artistic edge to them. I’m currently reading Charlie Porter’s What Artists Wear and was reading the chapter about Sarah Lucas and her “Self Portrait with Fried Eggs” and I saw this top on Vestiaire on the same day. Felt like fate! Someone should snag it up.

Jean Paul Gaultier Pareo

Rarely do you find a masterclass in styling, in the way these photos show (bravo to the private seller who uploaded them all!) A great value for how many looks you can get out of this piece, I love that you can add your own personality to it depending on how you wear it.

Prada Gold Skirt

If you want to be ahead of the curve, Miu Miu essentially just showed this skirt a few weeks ago, well now you can have the original.