Vintage has become commonplace on both the red carpet and the pavement, with the likes of Zendaya, Kim Kardashian, and Rihanna among the A-listers leading the charge. But while all things ’90s—from Jean Paul Gaultier to John Galliano—have dominated in recent years, vintage experts are predicting a more covered-up approach in 2024 with the return of both the ’50s and ’80s.
Meanwhile, this year’s Met Gala theme, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion”— which will see the Costume Institute exhibition take a look back across 400 years of history—is set to bring an array of archival looks to the red carpet on the first Monday of May.
“My hope is that vintage is here to stay,” Alexis Novak, founder of Tab Vintage, tells Vogue. “The red carpet is a catwalk for celebrities to show off their collections and taste, [and] they have a perfect opportunity to make a statement of their personal consciousness about the impact fashion has on the environment.”
Below, see what the experts predict will be the biggest vintage trends of 2024.
Amber Valletta in an ’80s gold lamé Azzaro dress, sourced via Aralda Vintage, at the 2022 Met Gala.
Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images
Return of the ’80s
While Y2K fashion has dominated the vintage market in recent years, the coming 12 months could see the return of the ’80s. “We won’t see as many miniskirts and cropped tops—I feel like people will want to dress more conservatively,” says Marie Laboucarié, founder of Nina Gabbana Vintage. “I think a lot of people will be interested in wearing longer vintage pieces with strong shoulders.” Look out, in particular, for leather pieces from the era, from trench coats to bomber jackets, while the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler, and Alaïa are all set to grow in popularity.
Think Ultrafeminine
In keeping with this shift in mood, experts are preparing for a ’50s resurgence too, thanks to shows like The New Look hitting our screens. “I’m seeing a lot of ’50s styles coming down the modern runways, which usually informs the requests we get in the vintage world,” Novak explains. “I predict we will see a lot of ultrafeminine styles. The 1950s saw stunning patterns and elegant fabrics, while the New Look styles dominated the late ’40s.”
The Rise of 9-to-5 Dressing
Fashion’s favorite It girls have been embracing corporate dressing of late, with Kendall Jenner leading the charge with her John Galliano two-in-one dress at Paris Fashion Week. It’s a trend that’s set to continue into the New Year. “I think it’s a natural reaction to the very bare look we have seen for so many seasons now,” says Shrimpton Couture’s Cherie Balch of the move toward more tailored vintage looks. “It feels fresh to go in the total opposite direction. I love seeing how creative people are getting with vintage pieces mixed with very modern styling and accessories.”
Natalie Portman in a re-creation of Christian Dior’s Junon dress from his fall 1949 collection at the Cannes Film Festival.
Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Getty Images
Big-Impact Dresses Will Rule the Red Carpet
Given the theme of this year’s Met Gala, we can expect to see exquisite archival gowns on the red carpet in the coming months. “I have been focusing on pieces with a big impact; pieces that will stand out and feel timeless,” Balch says. “It’s about finding that perfect something that will make the person wearing it look their most beautiful, while still being a dress that will take your breath away.”
Ease Is the Name of the Game
Although we can expect to see more tailored looks going forward, ease will still be vital for vintage shoppers. That means flowing silhouettes and draping are likely to increase in popularity in 2024. “I am getting a lot of requests for things that are easy to wear,” Balch notes. “Bias cuts, fluid pieces, things that move well on the body and are still glamorous.”
