Like many designers this season, Naeem Khan was drawn to the idea of stripping things back and toying with minimalism. “I needed a palate cleanser—like a sorbet after an amazing appetizer,” says the Indian-American designer. But simplicity looks a little different for someone who’s known for his extravagant eveningwear and heavy embroidery work. Instead of creating stark, neutral frocks, Khan experimented with finding subtle new ways to approach party dressing in his own way—putting emphasis on quieter colors and flourishes to let his craftsmanship shine.
One way in which Khan refined his assortment was by zeroing in on a new architectural inspiration. He looked to “masters of modernism,” as he calls them, such as David Chipperfield and Zahn Hadid, to ignite ideas for sculptural designs. “I wanted clothes that were architectural,” said Khan. “Even with the ballgowns, I didn’t want giant volume. It was about keeping everything minimal—but minimal in my world, because I’m so over the top.” His floor-length, short-sleeved navy gown made use of raffia appliqué for a textural shape. “I love raffia because it’s organic,” he said. “We developed this technique in Italy where you actually sew the raffia in this abstract pattern. It gives me structure.”
There were other colorful ideas in the mix, too. His silk halter gowns—in purple, red, and magenta—had shaped rosettes at the neckline, which provided just the right amount of drama. Turns out, they were an adaptation of a bridal gown he designed. “I did a rosette bridal dress in a blush color, and it was everybody’s favorite dress,” he said. LBDs, meanwhile, had Swarovski trims along the neckline and back. They were created with dancing in mind. “[The long gown] has got a little flare to it at the bottom,” he said, “so if you’re dancing, it swings when you move.”
Sure, Khan’s glitzy dresses mean he’s sticking to his signatures, but there were technical innovations here. His sleeveless, champagne-colored column gown had intricate leaf-style embroidery all over it—all applied onto a comfortable (and unexpected) jersey fabric. “It molds to your body, and when you pack it from travel, you don’t even have to iron it, “ he said. Call it glamour on the go.
