If success is measured by the size of a brand’s booth at Pitti Uomo’s Padiglione Centrale, then Brunello Cucinelli ranks pretty high. Vast as a ballroom, always crowded to capacity, populated by the designer’s posse of collaborators-turned-models, it’s presided over by the entrepreneur himself, entirely at ease among a constant coming-and-going of clients and friends. Despite having built an empire with a market cap of around $6 billion, he stays grounded and approachable, ready to share his wisdom on what he calls “a balanced, gracious growth.”
Consistency and distance from fleeting trends are part of Cucinelli’s ethos; his take on menswear conveys a gentle, light-handed revision of the classic Italian codes of bel vestire, the national sport of being well turned out without looking too precious or exceedingly fastidious. He cringes at being defined as the standard bearer of the quiet luxury craze, which he actually calls silent luxury. “I don’t want to be silent when I dress up, who on earth wants to look silent?” he mused, sounding rather annoyed. “Everyone wants to look great every day of the year, possibly more handsome and worthy of attention than the day before.”
Cucinelli’s flattering fitted suits aren’t for everyone though, as they’re rather expensive. That doesn’t undermine the brand’s appeal to younger customers, who buy a blazer as an investment piece and pair it with denim or more formal options. It’s an attitude that delights Cucinelli, who believes in standing for individuality in matters of taste.
Slight, nuanced adjustments of lengths, fits, and details keep the brand’s look fresh and attractive. Cucinelli believes that elegance can be appealing to young audiences if treated with a modern approach, less extravagant and show-offy without being blandly classic and average. That the crowd of peacocks hanging around for photo-ops outside of Pitti’s Padiglione Centrale this season felt less exuberant and cocky than usual seemed to validate the designer’s POV.
His fall offer was subtly rejuvenated—chic silk ties were worn under handcrafted rustic chiné knits tucked into corduroy trousers, casual beige trench coats were thrown over black velvet tuxedos, sporty piuminos were replaced by impeccable yet roomy city coats, and fluid pants exuded ease while remaining dapperly old-school. Cucinelli’s collection is aligned with the breezy take on masculine dressing that syncs up with l’air du temps.
