As you glance through these men’s and women’s collections, it’s worth revisiting the runway coverage from September since you’re likely to notice something different. The roomy robes, generous tunics, capacious coats—all deliberately proportioned but undeniably large—have given way to looks that are less ample, more fitted.
This is not to suggest The Row has done anything radical. Only that we can see a tendency towards narrower lines with tailoring that creates a defined silhouette. Some examples: A short, contoured jacket worn with a slim pant and rounded pumps; a dress belted for waist emphasis (and bright red tights for leg emphasis); an ultra-smooth, leaned-out leather jacket; a three-button jacket, wingtip tuxedo shirt and trousers that slightly recalibrate how we envision the brand. Even new bags—including the tubular Edith, the Mini Devon and streamlined minaudières—were downsized and compact.
What might this say about where Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are in their lives? An evolving style? A changing relationship with the body? An ennui towards all things enveloping? One answer could be that there are considerations towards a broader wardrobe—one that accommodates greater ways of dressing while maintaining maximum ease.
With more emphasis on tailoring and since the mannequins appeared together, some of the men’s and women’s looks were practically indistinguishable. Across both there was a soigné confidence made possible by the perfect distressing on a leather jacket; the sumptuous feel of a treated cashmere blazer; or the dresses that were draped or cut with flawless simplicity, the lurex shimmer bringing just enough glamour.
Beyond this lookbook edit, the salons of the Paris showroom revealed just how expansive the brand’s offer has become. From the luxurious leisure outfits to the small leather items, with color bursts that spanned muted blues to salmon pink, clients could conceivably opt in for all of it, knowing that would be additive to their existing wardrobe. A pair of cuissardes for every day, why not!
Without assuming anything, it is interesting to wonder what follows these collections. From the off-duty towels around the shoulders last season to pushing the polish here—the Olsens’ is a version of real life that we invariably want to live.
