Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks have made spectacular surroundings—Tivoli, Arne Jacobsen’s home in the suburbs, Kongens Nytorv, a public square that allowed passersby to take in the action—a part of their storytelling. The subject, of course, is their glamorous selves. So their decision to pare back the guest list to 150 and stage a non-seated show in their shop (once the location of the royal pharmacy) was a marked change, one the designers felt was in keeping with these volatile times.
Kate Moss in her mid-2010s boho phase was the nominal muse of the combined pre-fall and fall 2024 collections, but you wouldn’t have guessed it. On a pre-show call Potts said the pair “didn’t really have a theme in the beginning,” nor was there much of one in the end. Designers needn’t reinvent the wheel every season, especially when the clothes relate back to their own personal styles.
As they prepare to mark their first decade as a brand, Saks and Potts have been doing a lot of stocktaking, and this reads in many ways like a greatest hits collection. The famous foxy coat was back on the prowl, as were the sexy lace-front leather pants from fall 2020. (In a strange coincidence, four years ago those trousers were worn by a model standing next to a Ferrari; this season’s show was opened by Stella Maxwell, about whom G-Easy sang “A Stella Maxwell right beside of me / A Ferrari I’m buyin’ three.”) This show, which was carefully edited down to 14 exits, underlined the duo’s gift for outerwear and for capturing a casually glam attitude.
The sporty tri-color knit tops were a nice continuation from last season’s polos, and a party dress in a changeant material, a leather puffer in sundried tomato-red, and a luxe coat in a brown and white hide all had considerable appeal.
