This month, the cast of Dune: Part Two (Zendaya! Timmy! Florence!) has been making the rounds on the red carpets to promote the upcoming Denis Villeneuve film—and Christian Siriano’s fall collection couldn’t be more in sync. This season, the designer drew inspiration from the original Frank Herbert novel that the film is based on—specifically taking interest in its desert terrain and post-apocalyptic feel. “I looked at all of the old movie posters,” said Siriano, adding that the reference resulted in him creating designs “that were soft, draped, and sand-like. It’s not a somber collection; there’s a lot of richness to it.”
Of course, this was a Siriano show, so he had to make the end of the world feel, somehow, glam. “I started thinking about if we lived in this post-apocalyptic place, and what we would wear for evening,” said Siriano. “I wanted to explore futurism in a more romantic way—less armor-like.” He landed on a dusty color palette to do so, zeroing in on looks in deep reds, burnt oranges, and golden hues. What the earthy tones lacked in brightness, they made up for in luxe materials, including silky wool suits, foiled outerwear, and metallic Lurex dresses.
The Dune of it all really came through with the tailoring. Siriano—who’s often known for his voluminous, theatrical silhouettes—wanted to experiment with a softer, more fluid approach to his cuts. As a result, his asymmetrical draping lent classic ideas—suits, ball gowns—a new feel. “Everything was about movement, which a lot of customers are asking for,” he said. “They don’t want a stiff dress that doesn’t do anything anymore.” Still, be couldn’t restrain himself from a bit of extravagance: The big ruffled skirts, feathered shoulder embellishments, and splashes of tulle felt—at times—unnecessary.
Though Siriano said he didn’t specifically have the new Dune cast in mind when designing, it’s hard not to envision Zendaya wearing some of his more standout evening gowns, which would be perfect for her current press tour. His sunset-striped Lurex gown, draped off the shoulder, was begging to be worn at a Hollywood premiere, as was his strapless column gown in a shimmering tangerine color, complete with a draped and corseted bodice. But it was less about dressing A-listers this season, he said, and more about creating silhouettes that would flatter a variety of bodies. (Siriano is one of the few New York designers who consistently considers size diversity.) “I wanted to show that any body can look amazing in a beautiful piece,” he said. He also intended the clothes to be transporting. “I just wanted people to feel like they’re in another world for 20 minutes,” he said. “Whatever world you’re dreaming of!”
