Brunello Cucinelli’s fondness for books is such that he has built a sprawling library, called La Biblioteca Universale, in his native Solomeo. For today’s presentation he indulged his proclivity for literature, replicating the retro atmosphere of a Caffè Letterario framing the fall collection. “It’s about communality, welcoming guests in a place where ideas can be shared,” said Carolina Cucinelli, the brand’s copresident and co–creative director. For the occasion, in lieu of show notes, a printed gazette was offered in the format of a newspaper (an endangered species); named The Solomeo Post, its front page boasted a quote from Edna St.Vincent Millay: “Beauty never slumbers.”
Like a good book that keeps you captivated, Cucinelli’s soft-hued world is akin to an enveloping cocoon, affable and expensive. Luxury is a concept that Cucinelli handles with aplomb: “I believe in gentle luxury,” he pondered. “It’s creativity without excess, it’s honest geniality, it’s about presenting yourself well while being respectful of others. Ultimately it’s about finding beauty in simplicity.”
The collection made the case for simplicity—up to a point. Masculine-inspired soft tailoring—lean cashmere city coats; fluid, liquid pantsuits; slender blazers in double cashmere—was given a counterintuitive luminous sheen, with surfaces laminated by threads of Lurex and embroidered sequins. Cucinelli described this take on the sartorial as “spontaneous formality,” with elegant shapes sustained by bonded textures yet kept supple and uncontrived. As an impactful counterpoint, a plethora of imaginative handcrafted knits featured a variety of elaborate textures; some pieces took around 60 hours each to be crafted. Argyle and Fair Isle motifs were reinterpreted through artisanal 3D techniques; fluffy textures were embellished with sequins, interspersed with feathers, or woven to achieve a light-as-lace webby effect. Cozy and extravagant, paired with svelte shorts or fluid high-waist trousers or else worn over elongated masculine poplin shirtdresses, they looked pretty spectacular. Carolina Cucinelli called them “emotional pieces.”
