A more introspective version of pop-infused fashion: That’s what Giuliano Calza proposed in his fall 2024 collection for GCDS, called Toys for Adults. Despite what the title may suggest, there were no sexual references at all; quite the opposite. Calza remembered when, during childhood, he asked his father, who was traveling for business, to bring him “something beautiful.” This nostalgic feeling made him think about other experiences he had when he was really young, like being mesmerized by horror movies, although terrified. These two elements, research of beauty and nostalgia, were the pillars on which this fall collection was based.
The toys were, for example, the Hello Kitty details on the buttons of a white double-breasted suit or the jacquard embroidery that embellished a gown camouflaging the Japanese cat. Who said one can’t make pop choices on a red carpet? Another kind of icon, the infamous killer doll Chucky, became the protagonist of a kimono-inspired motif used for accessories such as a ’90s-looking bag. The small villain’s Good Guys hammer was reinterpreted as a bejeweled clutch.
Overall, the collection was very sophisticated, starting with an all-white palette that recalled the purity of childhood, then look after look became darker and more sensual. Being a pop-inspired designer doesn’t mean being unaware of what is happening right now in the world; hence Calza proposed babydoll dresses in pink or silver Lurex plush and also oversized and structured coats to create armor around the often exposed body. Contrasts were a constant in this show, but often in a more subtle way: Leather was used for tailoring, for instance, and the Morso shoes were disguised as simple pumps.
