Jonathan Simkhai dove into a nautical story (a theme that hit the high-tide mark at pre-fall) for spring and found some treasures in its depths. Among them were the sailor’s knots that crisscrossed down the side of a gathered, one-shoulder, sunset-orange, vegan leather dress. A cerulean number was made of bias strips of chiffon that had been rolled into cords and stitched together one-by one and left to unravel at the hem, creating a sort of seaweed effect. The requisite pea coat was reimagined in a duster length with gold buttons for women, and with same-color buttons and a curved sleeve with was set-in at front and raglan at back, for men.
Deconstruction continued to be of interest to the designer, as evidenced by an “inside-out” ivory vest with matching pants is a summery version of a suit. Custom hardware, a brand mainstay, was applied with a light hand to catch the fall of a draped jersey dress as well as to bejewel the belt of a sleeveless trench. Lace trimmed a satiny slip dress; a jersey dress featured a lace print (a nod perhaps to a popular Margiela-ism) that took this house standby (the designer’s grandfather had a lace factory) in an interesting new direction.
