As London’s Fashion Week came to a close, Talia Byre hosted an intimate presentation in her Hackney studio, featuring tipples from Lant Street Wines and homemade treats—including orange-blossom cakes and ginger biscuits—complemented by chic mid-century furniture curated by interiors maven Jermaine Gallacher. Byre’s refined taste shone through, setting the stage for her fall collection.
Inspired by recent personal experiences, notably a transformative monthlong journey through Japan and Korea, as well as the uplifting atmosphere of her east London studio, Byre’s latest collection embodied a spirit of spontaneity infused with abundant joy. Bold prints and textures dominated, each piece meticulously crafted to a new level of elevation; pony hair, cow-print suits, zigzag camisole dresses, and striped rugby tops were standouts. Displayed against the stark white walls of her studio, each full look was presented on hangers. The designer imbued her signature silhouettes with gallerina peculiarities: asymmetric hemlines, abstracted houndstooth prints, layered and mismatched shirts. “I wanted to capture a vibe where being seen is a thrill and empowering all at once,” she said in a preview, “but also to push our silhouettes with a lot more pizzazz—these clothes are not for the shy!”
While Byre’s collection is typically born from emotion rather than literal references, this season there were whispers of Amedeo Modigliani’s evolving portrayals of his muse and lover, Beatrice Hastings; the iconic girl groups of the 1960s like The Shangri-Las, whose song “Hate to Say I Told You So” inspired the collection’s name, Told You So; and the enduring charm of Hollywood’s Sweater Girl archetype, embodied by the likes of Lana Turner and Jayne Mansfield. This resulted in a mash-up of gorgeous knits in offbeat shades of crimson, navy, and umber. A dalmatian-print knit gown in teal, complete with a matching oversized scarf, felt particularly fabulous.
Being part of Byre’s journey is an enriching experience, seeing a unique talent hone their craft without compromising their vision. She stands out among her peers by eschewing trends and resisting categorization into any aesthetic movement. This collection, though shown in a static setting, was her most compelling to date.
