Considering the extensive archive of the late Vivienne Westwood, it’s not surprising that the in-house team now helming her eponymous label continually reference her past work, deconstructing and reinterpreting as they go along. The fall collection found inspiration in Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s seminal 1774 novel The Sorrows of Young Werther. Westwood herself is quoted in the brand’s press release, having once said, “Andreas bought me Goethe’s book. It was the first tragic novel, and it caused a sensation – and was one of the factors which led to the Romantic movement. Napoleon took ‘Werther’ on his Egyptian campaign in 1798 – and when he met Goethe in 1808, he told him that he had read the book seven times – he decorated him.”
Unveiled at the brand’s London HQ in Mayfair, the latest collection merged a tapestry of textures and concepts inspired by the early 19th-century ‘Empire style’ movement, the Napoleonic era’s aesthetic, and the lavish grandeur of Imperial Rome. Looking to classical antiquity and military regalia, the lineup featured intricate interior prints and Jacquards expertly tailored into an array of louche blouses, structured jackets, and playful skirts. A halter-neck top, evoking the sophistication of a gentleman’s three-piece suit vest, underwent a transformation into a hybrid corset with a structured boned interior. This same ingenuity was echoed in a striking red knit cardigan, cleverly integrated with a built-in corset.
In contrast, the collection also featured rugged, animalistic elements evoking the wild landscapes of Scotland, with earthy tones and pony-hair accessories—a standout being the fuzzy platform boot. Referencing Ancient Rome, toga-esque dresses crafted from copper viscose fabrics created an illusion of liquid leather, hanging effortlessly from racks. Suiting took center stage, showcasing impeccably tailored variegated striped wool two-piece suits alongside a denim twist on the classic frock coat, paired with matching breeches—a masterful fusion of tradition and contemporary flair.
While gauzy knits made recurring appearances in relaxed, patchwork separates, outerwear crafted from red and gray Harris Tweed added a distinctly British touch to charming double-breasted coats and structured jackets. Despite the array of intriguing concepts, the collection occasionally felt overwhelmed by the multitude of ideas presented. Streamlining the focus on singular references could’ve enhanced cohesion and clarity.
