Todd Snyder was thinking about America, specifically the Pacific Northwest, for the spring Woolrich Black Label collection, his second as global creative director. “Traditionally Woolrich is known as a fall brand,” he said, fresh off a flight back to New York from Milan where the runway show was held. “But really, it’s this great, iconic American brand that’s been around for almost 200 years; we created this tagline ‘Let Nature Be Your Muse,’ to start telling the story of all different parts of America.”
And so this season found him inspired by the Pacific Northwest “in the springtime, thinking about hiking, trail walking, fishing, and all those activities you’d be doing.” Being active-driven means that Snyder began designing from the feet first: a sneaker/hiking shoe with a thick Vibram sole, a knit upper “so it forms to your foot,” a “speed lace,” and webbing inspired by backpacks. “It used to be that people were inspired by ‘the street,’” Snyder said. “And I’m still inspired by ‘the street,’ but the new frontier is the outdoors in that it kind of has become ‘the street’ in a way, and that’s why you have people wearing this type of stuff in New York City, Chicago, and in places that you wouldn’t typically think of.” The designer would like to make Woolrich Black Label a part of the Gorpcore conversation.
It’s an achievable goal, at least according to his spring lineup, which offered a versatile assortment of practical, utilitarian clothes with an unmistakable fashion bent. The parka that opened the collection was straightforward in its design, except for the fact that it had ample kimono sleeves, and was made from a nylon jacquard woven with a metallic fiber that added a rugged texture to the surface—a subtly opulent take on a camouflage print. Another abstract take on camouflage, which simultaneously resembled falling leaves or a heat map, was printed on a nylon ripstop material with a checkered pattern and as a vest paired with a classic mesh tank (“like the one military guys wore in the ’70s”). It was the epitome of outdoor wear, as was a pair of zip-off cargo pants. On another look, a pair of baggy cargo shorts in the print were paired with a cotton sweater printed in a swirl of blues and greens that were tie dye-meets-camo, a mesh tank peeking out underneath the sweater’s hem, and topped off with a Boy Scout-inspired scarf tied at the neck in the same print: the same sort of building pieces took on a more “fashion” look.
It’s a strategy that worked throughout; every piece was designed for a specific purpose. Ribbed knits in recycled cotton and fleece jersey used in baggy shorts, sweaters, and half-zip pullovers would work as both leisurewear or activewear; a waterproof neon green tech jacket had an opulent satin sheen, but was made to withstand the elements (and lined in foil for extra warmth). Another jacket appeared to be covered in sequins, but was a lightweight, waterproof jacket from a sheer rip-stop nylon that just happened to have a fabulous finish. “When I design, I always try to think of texture—what’s the juxtaposition if I’m doing everything rough and rugged, how do I think about adding something shiny?” Snyder explained. “I think it’s always about pushing and pulling between heritage and modern, the blend of those worlds.” There were also more lighthearted components: a “souvenir” T-shirt with a classic illustration of a man fishing in the mountains (though its boxy fit was thoroughly modern); a short sleeve button down shirt embroidered with the names of all the national parks in the US; and a chunky, cozy jacquard sweater decorated with an image of two men on a tiny canoe struggling to bring in a gigantic fish caught on their line. Their purpose? To bring an element of fun and levity into the collection. “At the end of the day, we didn’t want to take ourselves too seriously,” said Snyder.
The classic Woolrich plaid shirt got a luxury makeover in 100% cashmere. “It’s the softest thing you’ll ever feel,” said Snyder. “It’ll be the first shirt you’ll want to throw on in the morning and the last shirt you’ll take off before going to bed.”
