When it comes to pre-collections, Jun Takahashi is not a man of many words. If his runways are emotional and overflowing with narratives that invite a myriad of interpretations, the lookbooks for his off-seasons come with little or no explanations. These clothes are less experimental and more grounded in daily life. The message seems to be: If the runways are meant to make you daydream, the pre-collections offer what you’ll be wearing while doing so.
This time around though Takahashi did send an email: “We aimed to create daily wear that is relaxed yet incorporates Undercover’s signature techniques throughout.” When prompted about the similarities between this collection and his knockout fall ready-to-wear show—with its flattened trompe l’oeil day-to-day uniforms and windswept layers—he added: “In recent seasons, a core concept has been to incorporate Undercover’s distinct style into wearable designs. This was true for the previous fall/winter collection and continues into this pre-collection.”
Here, Takahashi expanded that fall trompe l’oeil concept with t-shirts hemmed with the top half of jeans and jackets ending in pleated panels evocative of skirts, demystifying his runway story by making it simpler and more wearable without doing away with its charm. He also slashed and paneled the shoulders and sides of sweatshirts and midi skirts, respectively, to insert evening-like drapes and volumes in everyday daywear styles. Pleating was a key element on everything from cardigans and shirting to trousers and t-shirt dresses. “The key point is that by incorporating feminine pleats and gathers into masculine tailoring, it creates a genderless aesthetic,” said Takahashi. It also adds a layer of oomph to the most ordinary of clothing, something few designers do with more aplomb than Takahashi.
Elsewhere, Takahashi split open the backs of jackets, hoodies, and button-downs and tied the loose ends together. The results are playfully aerodynamic and decisively straightforward. There’s no need for hefty concepts and lofty explanations when clothes are made with their wearers in mind. This fashion speaks for itself.
