Frederik Berner Kühl sees each new collection as an “evolution, [rather than] a revolution.” It’s a mantra that also describes the designer’s ethos more generally; instead of attempting to reinvent the wheel, he is in the business of evolving menswear staples by “playing a lot with archetypes, and making them interesting.”
For spring 2025, Berner Kühl wanted to showcase the careful construction of his designs by, quite literally, turning them inside out—from the fabrics to the zippers, which were sewn in the wrong way around, rendering the tape visible from the outside. Meanwhile, the cuffs on his shell jackets were purposely turned up to highlight the coating of the performance material.
Fabrication is a key focus for the designer, whose use of texture forced you to do a double take on his wardrobe essentials. Highlights included his lightweight button-up knits, silky shirting, and a matching leather bomber jacket and trousers, which offered a modern take on the classic suit.
Amidst all the noise of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Berner Kühl’s quiet offering cut through. Sometimes it’s better to stick to one idea, and do it well.
