The winds of change are blowing at Derek Lam 10 Crosby.
If that line sounds familiar, it’s because just over a year ago, last summer, this very writer used it to open the label’s resort 2024 review. Back then, designer Kate Wallace had just been brought onto the label to give it a revamp. That’s old news now. Wallace has left the brand, with design director Yana Popov taking the reins.
For her first spring lineup as lead designer, Popov enlisted the New York artist Jill Moser to collaborate with. Moser’s gestural paintings and her idiosyncratic use of color served as Popov’s starting point here. The designer looked at Moser’s paint layering and knack for featuring bright “impossible” colors as part of her work to create her color palette. The result was a fresh and contemporary lineup that played up Lam’s original design vernacular—a sophisticated outlook with a touch of utility.
