Just when guests at Naeem Khan’s spring presentation thought the show was concluding, the lights in the Angel Orensanz Center—formerly a synagogue—suddenly turned a deep shade of green, and the score from Broadway play Wicked began playing. The iPhones all rose up: Khan collaborated with Universal Studios to design a small capsule of Wicked-inspired looks, which will go on sale in anticipation of the November film adaptation by Jon M. Chu. “I was inspired by the Good Witch and the Bad Witch, and making them glamorous—and not costumey,” said Khan, who designed his signature evening gowns in shades of Elphaba green, Glinda pink, and black.
Such blockbuster collaborators can often feel cheesy or like a cash-in, but here it felt unexpectedly fun. Out came a sheer tulle gown with tiered shiny green fabric—as if Elphaba was going to the Oscars—and a pink, long-sleeved column gown covered entirely in cascading beaded fringe (Glinda on a regular Tuesday). They were wickedly fabulous, and if the film’s stars Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande don’t wear at least one of the creations to their various forthcoming premieres, it would be a crime.
But it wasn’t all Wicked-mania. As usual, Khan delivered a strong assortment of refined eveningwear that was heavy on the crystals, beads, and embroidery. Many of the finishings this season were inspired by a trip he took to Sicily this summer, including Noto and Taormina. “I took a lot of inspirations from the church walls,” he said. The silvery baroque robe coat, paired with a cream silk deep-V dress, felt ornate in such a manner, as did the purple draped-chain column gown, which hung in a way that resembled a pair of regal curtains fitting for royalty. Many of his gowns this season also featured beaded patterns of olive branches—inspired by the vineyards he visited while living la dolce vita.
Sure, there was lots of sparkle, and perhaps it wasn’t the most surprising collection from Khan, but few do glitz and glamour as well as he does. There was a sense of refinement in taste level in his execution of red carpet dressing, which can often veer into gaudy territory. Even better was his foray into menswear—a new category for the designer. His evening suits had just the right amount of razzle-dazzle, like his pinstriped suit lined with beaded fringing. “The Naeem man is flamboyant, just like my woman,” Khan said. “He’s not afraid to wear sequins.” More men shouldn’t be. Though his mandarin-collar evening coat with matte black beads provided a more subtle shine. Entry-level shimmer.
