Several houses in fashion claim a hedonistic, rock ’n’ roll soul. There are many more that once flourished but have since disbanded. What we haven’t witnessed for some years in this arena though is a true breakout: the emergence of some young indie that grasps the flame, makes it relevant to now, and fires a generation to dress for excess.
Aaron Esh has sensed the availability of that tantalizing niche. And with the patronage of Sarabande (the foundation established and endowed by Alexander McQueen) plus the input of stylist Katy England and this season a bursary from Jaguar he seems nicely positioned to pursue it. Esh said of tonight’s show and collection: “It’s about decadence. The idea of velvet and silk and leather. But seen in the most Hackney way.” He added that he was inspired by hard-up and hard-partying East London aesthetes who haunt Vestiaire Collective for months in order to secure that perfect vintage piece to go out in. This detail neatly dealt with any watching old-timer’s vague sense of deja-vu: for as well as McQueen, Esh’s work sometimes evoked canonical players like Lang, Slimane, Ford, Cavalli, Varvatos and Yves Saint Laurent (who is to rock ’n’ roll fashion what Muddy Waters is to rock ’n’ roll).
Skinny tie/scarves from Rockins and vintage stack-heeled boots accessorized a menswear section that riffed through the heritage of glam from Marc Bolan to indie sleaze. There was a visually catchy refrain in the diagonal vectors of seamed paneling incorporated into tailored silk satin and leather. Dresses were shiny liquid licks of fabric laid expertly down and around the wearer.
“To me fashion is that girl, that person at the party,” said Esh after a show whose tautness, focus and confidence was total. What his work seems ripe for, though, is the addition of some sensation-catalyzing creative shock: a kind of Andrew Weatherall on Screamadelica layering of the unexpected that transforms the heritage he’s mining to feel entirely new and now again. You wouldn’t bet against Esh finding that fresh angle and making the breakthrough.
