As Britney Spears’s “Overprotected” blasted from the speakers at Ashley Williams’s spring show, models came down the runway in adult-size baby rompers, Sailor Moon–esque dresses, and an array of pieces covered in a vintage-inspired bunny print. “The main inspiration was [the idea of] exploring different parts of yourself, different ways in which you show up in the world,” the designer explained backstage following the show.
The opening looks explored the “emotionally immature character,” hence the babyish feel. Then came the “idealized version of yourself,” represented by superhero-like dresses featuring large keyhole cutouts and combs adorning the long blonde wigs and several of the dresses—signaling, in Williams’s mind, someone who is “fully functioning” and in control (in contrast to those trying to hide behind their hair via wigs that covered half the models’ faces).
Then there was the “boundaryless, angry, vulnerable” character, signified by the leather breastplate and matching skirt embossed with the outline of a gun. The motif—also emblazoned across dresses and a tracksuit top and skirt—felt somewhat jarring, particularly alongside a cap and T-shirt printed with the slogan “Happiest girl in the world” next to bloody bullet wounds.
Still, there was much for the brand’s loyal fan base, many of whom were at the show, to get excited about, from the dalmatian skirt to the cutesy shoulder bags. Williams is a master at universe building: it’s her world, and we’re all just living in it.
