From the Archives: Kyle MacLachlan’s Very New York Thanksgiving

As is the case on most special occasions, a lot needed to be accomplished before the dozen or so guests arrived tonight.

“Buy the flowers; get the cheese and the wine,” said Desiree Gruber, an über-public relations executive whose company, Full Picture, masterminds the careers of everyone from hoteliers to supermodels.

“And finish decorating the apartment,” added Desiree’s husband, the actor Kyle MacLachlan, laughing.

In the spirit of the show tune from Mame that says “we need a little Christmas, right this very minute,” the bicoastal Gruber-MacLachlans wanted a little Thanksgiving—well, actually, the full meal, candlelight, crystal, and flowers—right this very evening in their three-bedroom loft-style space in the Chelsea section of Manhattan. Real Thanksgiving, America’s most deliciously democratic of meals—a holiday for people of all faiths, creeds, and colors—was still a few weeks ahead.

“In New York, we eat in restaurants so much,” said Kyle, “as opposed to Los Angeles, where it is part of the culture to have people in because everyone seems to have a lovely or cool house to entertain in.”

Before Kyle could start cooking, assisted by private chef Hank Tomashevski, he and Desiree went shopping early morning for orange roses with floral designer Raul Avila at Gary Paige’s shop in the flower market. Next stop was the Burgundy Wine Company for potables—a Domain Drouhin 2002 Pinot Noir would do nicely—and then Citarella on lower Sixth Avenue for cheese and olives. As for tonight’s menu, it was traditional MacLachlan family Thanksgiving fare, handed down from Kyle’s father.

“It is a tradition,” Kyle said. “The men in my family cook.”

There was turkey with corn-bread stuffing, Brussels sprouts, Waldorf salad, homemade cranberry sauce, mashed white potatoes, and more potatoes, sweet potatoes and yams mixed, pot-boiled first, then put in a frying pan with brown sugar and butter. “It sort of caramelizes,” Kyle said, stirring and smiling. For dessert, there was a selection of fruit pies.

The handsome dining-room table by David Linley was set with wedding-present plates and glasses. Curtains were hung in the dining room, and the guests assembled. They included Isabella Rossellini and her daughter, Elettra Wiedemann; Elettra’s beau, Fabrizio Lavoro, a disc jockey from Milan; Greg Jordan; and Katherine Sweeney. The film director Guy Maddin stopped by for a drink.

It was Jordan who helped the couple pull the place together when they bought the apartment more than a year ago. The walls—done in a luxurious Venetian plaster chosen by their friend Eric Hughes— were hung with their collection of paintings, including a beloved work by the artist Michael Jensen, and lined with the impressive wall units that Kyle bought from the Gilman Paper Company when its high-designed offices were deconstructed not long ago.

“Kyle is a great cook,” said Desiree. “He courted me with his food.” Desiree told about being brought mozzarella and basil on toast points while she was dressing to go to the Emmys with Kyle when they were first dating, and about the lemons Kyle picks from the trees in his L.A. garden and then cures with cardamom pods. (“So we can make lemon chicken tagine anytime we want,” he explained.)

“The sauce, the sauce!” Isabella Rossellini exclaimed, extolling the virtues of Kyle’s cranberry sauce.

A secret recipe? Just the freshest berries boiled with sugar in water, as the MacLachlans have been doing for generations back home in Yakima, Washington.

The Menu

Sides

Brussels sprouts Waldorf salad Cranberry sauce Mashed potatoes Sweet potatoes with yams

Main Event

Turkey with corn-bread stuffing

Dessert

Fruit pies

How-To

All the Trimmings

1. The rich saffron glow of marigolds and Chinese lanterns is a fresh alternative to the formality of roses. Centerpiece by Raul Avila; (212) 242-7673.
2. A high-style Thanksgiving is all about presentation. Even tap water becomes part of the rich mood when poured from a hand-painted pitcher. Crate and Barrel earthenware, about $35; www.crateandbarrel.com.
3. What better way to display the season’s bounty than by calling a family heirloom into service? Nineteenth-century Provençal bowl, about $580, from Le Fanion antiques; www.lefanion.com.
4. Give thanks for candlelight: Everyone looks better by the flicker of flame. Candle from Greg Jordan NY, about $45; (323) 653-0526.
5. Show your love by sending truly special invitations with a holiday motif. Mrs. John L. Strong note cards, about $65 for a pack of twelve; www.mrsstrong.com.