See “The Story of Ohhh…” Polly Mellen and Helmut Newton’s Steamy 1975 Editorial

Polly Mellen, the charismatic fashion editor who died months after her 100th birthday, was a pusher of boundaries, and she really went for it with 1975’s “The Story of Ohhh…,” photographed by Helmut Newton. Everything about this story, in which a photographer and a fashion model are protagonists, is eyebrow raising, even the title—which is a reference to a French erotic novel, The Story of O. It’s a ménage à trois (or maybe quatre), that seems sexist today, but at the time, it was Lisa Taylor sitting with legs parted, devouring a shirtless male model with her gaze, that got people talking. “The Story of Ohhh” appeared in the same issue of Vogue as Deborah Turbeville’s scandalous “bathhouse” sitting, which Mellen also styled. It was titled “There’s More to a Bathing Suit Than Meets the Eye,” and the images evoked intense reactions, as some people saw in them references to gas chambers or addiction. “Extraordinary” is how Corporate Photography Director Ivan Shaw describes Mellen’s twin stories in May 1975. Something that “can only be attributed to Mellen’s astonishing mix of creative brilliance and unwavering courage.” —Laird Borrelli-Persson

“The Story of Ohhh…” was originally published in the May 1975 issue of Vogue. Photographed by Helmut Newton. Fashion Editor: Polly Mellen. Hair and makeup, Rick Gillette. Photographed at St.Tropez, in and around La Paziella, the house built for Elsa Martinelli and her husband Willy Rizzo by Roger Herrera.

Bare arms, bare neckline—Oscar de la Renta’s—cinnamon halter-smock for day. To wear with six smooth wooden bangles…and ardent splashes of eau-u-u. Earrings, Peter & Peggy for P.C. Designs. Bangles Eva Graham, Fabrice. Omega belt. (Clearly, one person here hasn’t got the message yet; never mind, on the next page, the spectator catches up with the sport.)… Dress, of polyester and cotton. Ruza Creations scarf. Lugene sunglasses. His watch, Cartier. Everything here, and on the following 12 pages, photographed at St. Tropez, in and around La Paziella, the house built for Elsa Martinelli and her husband Willy Rizzo by Roger Herrera. The mood throughout heightened by the hair-and-makeup wizardry of Rick Gillette.

THE BARENESS: The ultimate plunge—Halston’s long, thin, perfect summer evening in red-and-white cotton-knit stripes (if you have to ask what to wear in the way of a bra, this may not be the dress for you; this isn’t the moment for anything else on the body—but perfume). Dress, of Fisba fabric. Jewelry, Elsa Peretti of Tiffany…. Accessories for bareness, right, an airy length of “fishnetting” to wear as the coolest scarf; and—the classic—perfume behind the ear (don’t say we didn’t warn you!). Scarf by Don Kline.

THE FRAGRANCE: The fragrance, adding definition to the coolest plunge on the coast, matching the dress in its effortless promise, Halston by Halston, a top note of incalculable warmth and beauty that worn on wet skin can last for at least 24 hours…and just as she has the imagination to knot a streak of fishnet around her bare throat, she sometimes has the wit to wear the new Silver Sage on earlobes and tucked into her episternal notch (the little hollow at the base of the throat)…NOT behind the ears where skin oils can distort the perfume’s true intention. Silver Sage is a scent created by Jess Bell for men and women, as our picture obviously proves…. Stop press fragrance news comes from Orlane for this month only…. They have masterminded the kind of purchase-with-purchase idea we thinks makes sense. With any $6 Orlane purchase, you can buy a good-looking tote bag (called Le Tote Chic) with 1 ounce of their piquant Eau de Toilette MW for only $7.50…bought separately, cost would be $25, so you save enough to stock up on Orlane’s Rose Lipstick, and Fluid-Blush in Rose Pastel worn by our model on the left.

THE BARENESS: The bareness…left, the dégagé charm of a neckline left untied—and filled with scent (the shadow knows!)—Calvin Klein’s smock-blouse of navy-and-white tiny-print cotton, matching wrap skirt. Mayar Silks fabric. Bangles by Art Asia. LA Tienda bag, Banana shoes…. Backless for day, right—Givenchy’s narrow halter dress in dusty-peach gabardine so thin it falls like silk…with wafts of marbled pink chiffon, a shimmer of scent… M-m-m-m! Carlotto gabardine; scarf, of Marbles silk chiffon. Earrings, Medusa Heirlooms by Kathryb Hausman. Givenchy sunglasses. Bangles by Cathy and Marsha for Catherine Stein, Peter & Peggy for P.C. Designs. His clothes, Saint Laurent. Accessories, next to last page…. Photographed at La Pazziella, the St. Tropez house of Elsa Martinelli and her husband, Willy Rizzo (Willy designed all the furniture).

THE FRAGRANCE: The fragrance, an essential part of any fashion bared down to show maximum skin, applied as early as you like—in the bath is a good place as bath oil or as cologne sprayed directly onto wet skin for the best retention value…. Rive Gauche by Yves St. Laurent gives full sensual value whichever way you take it—in oil, soap, body lotion, dusting powder, and, of course, the full (pow) strength of the perfume…. On a big evening, perfume imprint stays in place longer when using real perfume which, applied via an atomizer, diffuses alcohol content (the amount added to the formula determines strength and so lasting ability), while the true scent clings to skin. Body heat releases the longer lasting deeper notes of say Givenchy III, made to wear with Givenchy’s oh-so-alluring dress here, a fragrance that is much more than a trio of essences, but a complex and always intriguing forest full of scents. The makeup here, Pommette Cheek-gloss and French Formula lipstick, both by Lancome.

THE BARENESS: The bareness… under the bareness, left: the ultra-pretty lacy-and-embroidered white bra with a plunging neckline, plunging sides, thin, thin straps… and the kind of easy front-closing anyone can manage! By Flair, of nylon tricot…. The open-air sundress, right: Sonia Rykiel’s enchanting cotton print in shades of pink, slit all the way up the sides—everybody picks up the scent! Of Mantero fabric. Bangles by Francine Hubert. The furniture by Willy Rizzo.

THE FRAGRANCE: The fragrance…that counts is one that doesn’t lose its identity in minutes but stays on the skin, even developing (like a Polaroid picture) as it merges with skin oils, producing the whole breadth of its composition. Cerissa, the new scent by Charles Revson, is of this genre, a breathtaking melange of floral blends (honeysuckle, jasmine, jonquil, and carnation, to mention but a few in the bunch) that work so well together it appears body chemistry does not substantially alter its main challenge to the olfactory sense. Most perfumes have a lighter side, a toilet-water or cologne version of the major plot. If it’s a great perfume, its character shouldn’t be lost in a lighter form…good example of this is Charlie, first launched as a cologne spray for summer, now also available in full perfume strength to wear after dark, lasting the night through. The easy summer hair, here, by Rick Gillette, who did the hair and makeup throughout these pages. Right: Extra-Extra Shine Lipstick, Real Live Blush, both by Revlon’s Charlie Cosmetics.

THE BARENESS: The bikini and its fans, opposite—the string-tied bikini in sienna-brown jersey with a matching wrap skirt. Sunglasses, Bib Lee for Hunting World. Bangle by Eva Graham. Sandlas: Herbert Levine… In fragrante…on the couch, below, the jumpsuit pyjama in parchment-colored stretch jersey with a skimp of halter…at the window, the gentle blouson-top dress of jade-green matte jersey on thinnest straps…. Pyjama by Robert David Morton for Quazoom, of Antron nylon and Lycra. Dress by Scott Barrie (Jasco fabrics rayon jersey). Left: Bangles by Francine Hubert. Right: Bangles, Francine HUbert, Eva Graham. His clothes, Saint Laurent. Accessories, next to last page…. Both pages, more views of the St. Tropez house of Elsa Martinelli and Willy Rizzo designed by Roger Herrera, with some of the furniture designed by Willy.

THE FRAGRANCE: The fragrance for indoor or outdoor sports is beautifully demonstrated by Estee Lauder’s Aliage, a breath-of-fresh-air—if air could only smell so green and great. Warning: don’t soak up the sun if your skin has soaked up the scent…as you well know, we’re against lengthy sunbathing anyway (anything longer than ten minutes is taboo), but sunblock is better than sport scent for sunwear…on the other hand, in the shade we advocate lavish spraying as often as the thought occurs…the more Aliage in the air the better for all of us. Makeup, opposite page, Cinnamon Polish Fresh Air Lip Polisher, Sparkling Burgundy Lustrous Nail Lacquer, both by Estée Lauder.

THE BARENESS: Bareness—everywhere you look! Halston’s navy jersey jumpsuit, far left— bare halter top, cutaway sides, cutaway back—so many places for perfume to go!… Bare, black, short, left—the little slip of a dress everyone wants at night, in silk crêpe de Chine. From Bill Blass…. The jumpsuit, of rayon (Pomezia fabric). Necklace by Elsa Peretti of Tiffany. The dress, of Lafitte fabric, about $395. His clothes, Saint Laurent…. Toujours…the one-shoulder dress—unfailing allure! Right: Here, Valentino’s narrow-falling printed black chiffon with a blowy little flounce top. Of Stucchi fabric. His shirt, by New Man; Saint Laurent trousers. All accessories, next to last page this issue.

THE FRAGRANCE: Fragrance…an important part of dressing, even when you decide to cover up (some) of your bareness. Don’t get hung up on one perfume and think it’s the only one for you. It isn’t. There are many out there that can give you new ideas about yourself—and how refreshing that is to look forward to. Wear fragrance wherever you feel a pulse beat—Chanel No. 5 on the underside of the wrist, inside the curve of your arms, at the temples, both back and front of your neck—your skin will love it. Change your perfume pace A.M. to P.M….just as interesting as getting into another mood with clothes at night. Farouche by Nina Ricci is a heady start to any evening, traveling on a woman’s skin, particularly promoting its femininity.

THE BARENESS: How to dress for the hottest day of summer, left: the naïve (naïve???) little gauzy pink sundress with bows on the shoulders, the coolness of fragrance on the nape of the neck—and hair lifted off…one way or the other…. Dress, Jacks by Maggie Browning, of polyester and cotton (Cohama fabric). His Cartier watch…. The thriller!—Dior’s un-big big-evening dress, right—nothing more than a sigh of white chiffon with the prettiest neckline we have seen anywhere this summer, and a matching scarf ribboned in navy and white satin…just enough covering to catch the scent of perfumed skin and send out the message… vite-vite! Dress, of Bianchini silk chiffon. Earrings, Diane Von Furstenberg for H& S Originals. Flower by Therese Aherns. … On all these pages, the look of perfect summer hair and makeup, by Rick Gillette.

THE FRAGRANCE: …nobody’s business but your own and your skin has to be the arbiter when it comes to choosing it. Five minutes after you’ve applied the wrist test, the marriage of your chemistry with the perfume is consummated… if you like what you smell, it means the scent is literally made for you. It could be—and probably will be—Jovan’s new Ginseng, a mysterious little scent meant for mysterious little places like the nape of your neck, the back of your knees, your navel…which is also exactly where the spectacular fragrance Miss Dior belongs, too—especially on big evenings belonging to the kind of the dress, right, also designed by Dior to be just simply The Best…. Makeup, Red Rose Creme Lipstick, Scarlet Magenta Multiple Colouring Creme by Christian Dior Makeup.