Long lines of Millennials and Gen Zers are frequently found outside the ‘hipster’ bakeries in London. From lychee flower croissants to long-fermented sourdough, places like the Dusty Knuckle, Toad Bakery and Eric’s have achieved a cult-like status for their intricate Instagram-worthy bakes.
It’s a trend seen elsewhere too, with The Bristol Loaf, Edinburgh’s Babyfaced Baker and York’s Flori all selling out of their signature bakes as soon as they open for trade.
In Paris, Boulangerie Louvard became a TikTok sensation earlier this year with teenagers lining up to try owner Stéphane Louvard’s ‘le crookie’ (a croissant filled with cookie dough creation) after it went viral.
It’s not just the younger crowd that is fuelling the rise of artisanal bakeries though.
There’s an increased appetite for authenticity and traditional baking methods across a wide demographic of consumers, evidenced in a growing preference for artisan bakery around the world. According to Stellar Market Research, the global artisan bakery market was valued at $33.79bn in 2023 and expected to grow at 4.13% CAGR between 2024 and 2030 to reach $47.96bn.
Raising the bar
Chris Young, coordinator of the UK’s Real Bread Campaign, said it’s not a recent phenomenon. In fact, he claims a growing number of artisan bakers have been “raising the bar” over the past 30 years or so.
“Their development of skills and knowledge, from the flours they select through to the techniques they use to rejecting all additives, has resulted in arguably the best ‘real bread’ made available to people in the UK for generations,” he told Bakery&Snacks.
“People recognize that bread, lovingly crafted by genuine artisan bakers, is fundamentally different from the additive-laden industrial dough products and are prepared to pay an honest price for an honest crust.”
Products handmade on the premises – created from sustainably-farmed grains and free of preservatives, emulsifiers and other additions used by industrial manufacturers to mass-produce offerings that have a longer shelf life – are fast gaining tractions amongst today’s health-conscious consumer.
Karen Dear, CEO of the Craft Bakers Association (CBA), said small, independent bakers rightfully pride themselves on their bakes that follow time-tested recipes and traditional methods, along with high quality ingredients.
“Using their skilled knowledge of their craft, hands-on bakery skills and maintaining their authenticity is where they differentiate themselves from mass-produced alternatives,” she told this site.
“The fact that they work with and in their community also resonates with consumers who value the tradition and craftsmanship.”
A growing preference for sustainable practices is also influencing those consumers who care about eco-friendly packaging and minimizing food waste. Sourcing ingredients locally is another differentiator.
“People are keen to support local producers,” said Young.
“Sales of certified organic food and the results of various surveys are good indicators that people want their food to have been produced in ways that reduce the negative – and increase the positive – impact on the planet.”
He added that having a micro-bakery making bread from scratch and using locally milled grain in every local community is central to the Real Bread Campaign’s vision.
Sweet smell of success
It’s not just sourdough and croissant hybrids that are booming both on shelf and on social media; brownies are big business, too.
In March, GBBO winner (and most recently, Strictly Come Dancing finalist) John Whaite launched a mail-order brownie business: Ruff Puff Brownies, based in Wigan, Lancashire. He faced criticism on his social channels for the high prices, but his brownies sell out online within minutes of going on sale.
Gluten-free options and plant-based items are another area where independent artisan bakeries can stand out.
Cake or Death – a vegan brownie business established by Katie Cross in 2019 in Hackney – has enjoyed runaway success among both vegans and non-vegans. Cross moved her standout pink leopard print-styled bakery to Exeter in 2021 and now employs three bakers to create her signature fudgy bakes for both the store and for the boxes that are dispatched around the UK.
She said customers are prepared to pay a premium for high quality products, with strong support coming from London and Devon consumers.
“Our products are indulgent and seen as a treat, which is perfect as a gift,” said Cross.
“I think feeling a connection with a business and supporting an independent local business is important to people. As is knowing that the business is ethical and has high environmental standards.”
It’s not all sweetness and light for small-scale artisan bakers though. The rising cost of ingredients is the “main current challenge” for Cross – especially the soaring cost of cocoa – but she’s adamant that she will not pass this on to consumers.
“Prices are rising steadily across the board, and in the case of chocolate, has just exploded in recent months,” she told this site.
“It’s prompted us to diversify our product range so we’re less reliant on chocolate brownies and able to subsidize their high ingredient costs with other less expensive products.”
Dear said while some craft bakery businesses thrive thanks to their unique offerings and loyal customer base, most face challenges in a competitive market. Innovation and inclusivity to ensure relevance to changing consumer preferences is critical for sustained business growth, she added.
The recruitment of skilled bakers has also been a long-standing issue for the industry.
“At Craft Bakers, we’re passionate about encouraging all age groups to look at bakery as a career choice, but to do this, training must be aligned with industry needs,” said Dear.
“We are urging the new UK government to review apprenticeship routes into our industry and review how the apprenticeship levy from this industry can be widely used. We want them to acknowledge the significant role the baking industry plays in the UK’s food landscape and its position in the local economy.”
In the meantime, social media is a powerful tool in reaching a larger and more diverse pool of potential employees. By showcasing the creativity, passion and social following one can amass, it has an important role to play in making the sector ‘sexy’ and attractive to individuals who might not have considered it a career choice.
